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Post by spursman66 on Dec 18, 2016 20:48:26 GMT
Hi All, not new to minis but new to automatics. I have a 92 1275 Mayfair auto in blue. She only has 24k miles and after the fitting of a new rear subframe last week or so, she is pretty much fault free......so I thought. Driving along today about 30mph when I suddenly lost any drive. Pulled over and tried every option, 1,2,3 and D as well as reverse. It seems to engage for half a second then disengage. Any suggestions, is it terminal. It has been suggested that I change the oil and filter. What oil and what filter. Other user on mini forum suggests motorcycle oil. Anyone with a suggestion. I am no expert but I like a tinker..
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Post by Stu on Dec 18, 2016 22:06:09 GMT
Sudden loss of drive without any prior progressive performance issues would suggest a mechanical failure somewhere in the geartrain to me.
I think changing the oil and filter's a good starter though. Sludge build up in the valve block and box in general will affect pressure and general performance, so it's a no brainer.
I've copied the below from a post MiniSniper commented on - 'The latest thinking on oils for the AP transmission is JAPO MA2, this translates to Japanese specification oil MA2, which is a motorcycle oil, however it must NOT be confused with MA or MA1 which are not the same and are useless for wet clutches which the MA2 excels. make sure to get 10W40 grade so the pistons and valves work as they should'.
It could be that the gear cable needs adjusting, or it could be somethin more serious like a sheared planetary gear, or a sheared oil pump drive.
From your comments it souns to me like there is an oil pressure issue preventing the gearbox from performing drive. This could be a few things, and could be something as simple as a low level of oil.
Keep us informed.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 19, 2016 21:34:07 GMT
Hi Stu, thanks for the feedback. I have ordered 5 Litres of Motul 5100 4T 10W40 MA2 Oil and the oil filter element replacement. Hopefully will get a chance to get it done before Christmas.
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Post by notamini on Dec 19, 2016 22:12:10 GMT
Happened to me back in 1975. I was 50 miles from home. the left side drive axle popped out of the wheel CV. It was still inside the boot but totally disengaged. The symptoms were exactly the same as yours.
Mark
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Post by Stu on Dec 19, 2016 22:52:58 GMT
Ah yes good point Mark. Wasn't thinking outside of the (gear) box there was I Worth checking your driveshaft CV's too then spursman66.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 20, 2016 21:46:27 GMT
Okay, I'll have a look at that, out with my Haynes Manual. Other mini forum also suggests checking the shifter cable. Any suggestions how I would go about that.
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 21, 2016 18:16:44 GMT
Just a thought spursman, if you can select park, and it locks park so you cant move car with the handbrake off. Then the cable should be ok.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 21, 2016 21:53:09 GMT
I have the car on axle stands at the front, put the gear selector in park, the wheels can still go round. Does that sound like a cable problem ?
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 21, 2016 22:23:13 GMT
You should not be able to move wheels as when park is selected there is a locking paw that engages the forward drive drum preventing it turning. Its not definitive as they have been known to not lock, but its worth investigating further. Take off the cover panel on the side of the gearbox where the cable enters, you will tell imediately if somethings amiss. Its only 2x bolts and you dont have to worry about draining.
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Post by Stu on Dec 21, 2016 22:44:46 GMT
or ............ one of the driveshafts has dislocated from the CV joint or one of the CV joints is toast. I think thats what it is personally.
You'll need to cut the retaining band and peel back the CV boot to check.
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 21, 2016 23:05:51 GMT
Yeah could be that too Stu, hence why you can turn it. Would also explain why it still starts as the inibitor is cable driven unlike the 998,s.
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Post by notamini on Dec 22, 2016 15:33:02 GMT
With it on stands, select a gear, apply the brakes and look at the axles to see if they are still moving. Also check the inner CV for movement if you can. Looks like a two man job unless Wifey is around to lend a foot.
Merry Christmas to all, Mark
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 23, 2016 6:49:50 GMT
Or make your wife climb underneath while your gassing it, even mine would,nt fall for that one,lol.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 23, 2016 11:49:22 GMT
Thanks for all the advice. Planning to get underneath today and have a look. What I have also found though. In park, the wheels turn (by hand) but in opposite direction. In drive I turn the wheel again by hand and only one turns this time. Is it sounding very much like a cable issue ??
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Post by notamini on Dec 23, 2016 14:12:53 GMT
Opposite sounds like your park pin is engaging and causing your diff to act. Does this happen with turning either wheel by hand? Any drag on one wheel will result in only one turning if the drive is free (not park)
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 23, 2016 19:43:23 GMT
I have now done the oil and filter change - No Change Followed some instructions to adjust the cable. The cable is in one piece as I can move the cable with the selector - No change Still seems to engage for half a second and then disengage. whilst on stands and in park, I can turn one wheel by hand and the other also turns in the opposite direction when turning either wheel. If in any gear, I can turn the wheel by hand and the other doesn't move. im going to have try tomorrow with the CV joints/driveshaft. Any other suggestions. It's looking more like a garage job.
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 24, 2016 10:39:44 GMT
There,s another thing it could be. The drive train locking dowel could have sheared, its very unlikely but would cause the same symptoms ,and i seem to remember reading somewhere to check this.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 24, 2016 13:02:42 GMT
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 24, 2016 18:18:17 GMT
No, its like a bolt with a dowel on the end.you have to remove to slide out the gear assembly train. It stop the carrier spinning.
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Post by Stu on Dec 24, 2016 20:23:16 GMT
The position of the dowel bolt. The dowel bolt unscrewed (bottom left) and the geartrain removed. and the hole in the geartrain where the dowel engages. The bolt's located on the rear left corner of the block when it's in the car. I'm not sure whether you can access it to remove for insoection while its in-situ or not?
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 24, 2016 20:34:37 GMT
That's all looking above what I can do at home in the garage. Looks like I am looking for an Essex based transmission expert. Any suggestions.
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Post by Stu on Dec 24, 2016 21:13:36 GMT
You're not local to me unfortunately. Have you investigated the driveshaft CV joints yet?
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Post by notamini on Dec 25, 2016 1:49:01 GMT
Stu, I'm quite sure the shafts are not the issue since the wheels both turn in accordance with the differential operation. I forgot that pin was there and I tend to agree now that this may be more likely the issue. Is it possible the pin/bolt is just not screwed all the way in or would this show a noticeable oil leak? As far as inspecting this bolt, one can do so fairly easily so long as you do not rotate/move anything while it is loose or out. See that it is seated all the way in first and if it is, remove it and see if it still has the pin end intact. If loose, take it out and try to rotate the drive while holding an awl inserted in the hole to see if you have the internal hole lined up and line it up if possible.
Happy Christmas guys.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 26, 2016 19:20:16 GMT
So being a bit daft here, I presume the screw/dowel goes through the casing and into the hole on the third picture. I guess that hole is not visible when in situ. I'll have a go tomorrow if I get the chance. Cheers again all. Even if I don't fix it at least I'm learning on the way.
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 26, 2016 20:13:06 GMT
Yep , thats right in the middle pic ,bottom left you can see the bolt/dowel virtually screwed out. What you cant see is the smooth part beyond the thread that locates into the hole of the cylindrical gear train. If you unbolt the bolt and its missing the portion beyond the thread you,ve found your problem.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 26, 2016 21:14:01 GMT
Great, thanks for the feedback. I'll give this one a go in the morning. I'll keep you posted.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 27, 2016 13:09:00 GMT
I had a look, jacked it up, located the dowelled screw and took it out. That's it below. Forgot about the oil which gone all over the floor !!! Screwed it back in quickly. Topped it up with a little more oil. Tried adjusting the cable again. Followed some instructions I found on here. No joy. Reverse - Not engaging at all. 1st - Engages momentarily clicks and disengages. 2nd - Much rage same as 1st. 3rd - it engages and on a couple of occasions even moved a very short distance. If I leave it in 3rd and rev the engine a little, it does seem to move a little and rocks back, 3 or 4 inches. Drive seems to occasionally engage for a moment and disengage again. So I have checked everything suggested so far and drawn a blank. It looks like transmission experts in the new year. Any suggestions in Essex, anyone.
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Post by Stu on Dec 27, 2016 17:02:42 GMT
I think the next step for me would be to get some oil pressure readings. You could also try a stall test first.
Apply hand and foot brakes , select any gear position except P, N & 1, apply maximum throttle for no more than 10 seconds and note tacho readings. 850cc (1300-1400rpm satisfactory) 998cc (1400-1500rpm satisfactory)
Rpms under 1000, stator free wheel slip, change torque convertor. Rpms under 1300, engine is down on power".
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 27, 2016 17:49:14 GMT
Check this out.
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Post by spursman66 on Dec 27, 2016 20:41:21 GMT
Not really sure I understand the stall test. Put it in 3rd for example, hand brake on, foot brake on and put my foot down on the accelerator at max revs. Having already tried this, it just revs round to 4K, 5k until I take my foot off the throttle. Ill check again tomorrow but sure this is what happened earlier. Also, carry out pressure test, not sure what this is.
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