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Post by 6886auto on Sept 15, 2022 9:30:17 GMT
Update:
I have to change the brake bands and get the drums machined. To get everything apart I am pulling the engine off the transmission. This also means all the seals will be replaced. Only the wide band hasn't worn into the drum so that one won't need to be machined. I would've thought it would be a bad one since it had the most play by far.
I have the equipment to machine them myself but I am not really good enough (also the lathe setup and tooling) to risk ruining the transmission so I will be paying someone else to machine them.
When I assembled the forward clutch, the last time I went to put it back together one of the rings got caught and damaged so I used an old one from another transmission. Since I am doing more work than expected I bought new ones so I will pull the forward clutch out again. At least it will be easier with the engine off.
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Post by 6886auto on Sept 15, 2022 9:44:39 GMT
Also I put wanted ads for transmissions/parts in a local mini forum and facebook groups.
Unfortunately the only responses have been for A series (not A+) transmissions in other states far away.
I was hoping to at least find parts for my rebuilds or another A+ power unit to put in to get my mini going. It has to be an A+ and probably only 998 due to the version of the aircon fitted. Otherwise I have a spare A series auto power unit I could use.
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Post by mra-minis on Oct 20, 2022 8:00:12 GMT
Also I put wanted ads for transmissions/parts in a local mini forum and facebook groups. Unfortunately the only responses have been for A series (not A+) transmissions in other states far away. I was hoping to at least find parts for my rebuilds or another A+ power unit to put in to get my mini going. It has to be an A+ and probably only 998 due to the version of the aircon fitted. Otherwise I have a spare A series auto power unit I could use. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Don't confuse "play" with "movement" the bands may have a lot or a little movement but the "freeplay" must always be set correctly
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Post by 6886auto on Nov 7, 2022 11:35:11 GMT
Also I put wanted ads for transmissions/parts in a local mini forum and facebook groups. Unfortunately the only responses have been for A series (not A+) transmissions in other states far away. I was hoping to at least find parts for my rebuilds or another A+ power unit to put in to get my mini going. It has to be an A+ and probably only 998 due to the version of the aircon fitted. Otherwise I have a spare A series auto power unit I could use. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Don't confuse "play" with "movement" the bands may have a lot or a little movement but the "freeplay" must always be set correctly Do you have a good description of it? they were definitely worn though and I think that I understand how to adjust them.
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 18, 2022 13:03:33 GMT
Austaloy 18G1094 ?? sorry I don't know what you mean, I think you are talking about the pipe holding tool, I have never used one, I made up the little one that holds the clutch in place while you try to maneuver the governor cover on while trapping you fingers trying to keep the oil pipes going into their holes and the governor link in place, I assume you have had the clutch out it can be a little tricky getting the clutch plates splines lined up so that the clutch slides fully onto the shaft hub, its very much easier with the engine off!!! but it can be done, it needs some intelligent persuading, do not force, should close up to the gasket OK, if you can rotate the shaft it helps. Jock Yes I have had the clutch out and believe I have it back on the splines fully (took a few attempts). I am using the correct tool to hold the clutch in place. I am still stuck with the governor cover needing to go another about 1cm. I can just look inside and it appears the oil pipe is slightly off (too far towards the centre shaft). I can't see how I can fix the alignment so maybe it is correct and it is just a spline alignment issue (most likely governor end where the step is). This is the 18G1094, I do know there is a different version of it but I don't know what the difference is. This one would be the "early" version. View AttachmentWhat I found when I pulled the clutch out was that there was of course wear but not spectacular. What I did find unexpected was one of the oil rings on the clutch shaft was broken with a missing section I haven't found anywhere. What I have done is replace the plates, seals and the four oil rings. Is there anything else I should be changing/checking while I am at it (without pulling the entire transmission apart) I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com The later Austalloy tools where marked as 18GA1094, you have an earlier version it never did fit the AP2 units and was barely useable on an AP1 because the chamfer in the aux pump pipes sockets were a lot larger, 18G1094 will be available soon from www.vlchurchill.co.uk it helps to align the pipes when the engine is off, and is essential if you do this work with the engine fitted.
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 18, 2022 13:04:57 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Don't confuse "play" with "movement" the bands may have a lot or a little movement but the "freeplay" must always be set correctly Do you have a good description of it? they were definitely worn though and I think that I understand how to adjust them. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com I am going to do a video once my new staff member starts after Christmas.
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Post by 6886auto on Jan 21, 2023 1:21:33 GMT
Got the parts back from being machined and was in the process of assembling it. It seems the rebuild kit is for a 1275 so has the incorrect thickness (too thin) intermediate pressure plate.
Am I correct? The foulis overhaul book was made in the 70's so the information doesn't cover everything.
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Post by mra-minis on Jan 22, 2023 13:42:44 GMT
Austaloy 18G1094 ?? sorry I don't know what you mean, I think you are talking about the pipe holding tool, I have never used one, I made up the little one that holds the clutch in place while you try to maneuver the governor cover on while trapping you fingers trying to keep the oil pipes going into their holes and the governor link in place, I assume you have had the clutch out it can be a little tricky getting the clutch plates splines lined up so that the clutch slides fully onto the shaft hub, its very much easier with the engine off!!! but it can be done, it needs some intelligent persuading, do not force, should close up to the gasket OK, if you can rotate the shaft it helps. Jock Yes I have had the clutch out and believe I have it back on the splines fully (took a few attempts). I am using the correct tool to hold the clutch in place. I am still stuck with the governor cover needing to go another about 1cm. I can just look inside and it appears the oil pipe is slightly off (too far towards the centre shaft). I can't see how I can fix the alignment so maybe it is correct and it is just a spline alignment issue (most likely governor end where the step is). This is the 18G1094, I do know there is a different version of it but I don't know what the difference is. This one would be the "early" version. View AttachmentWhat I found when I pulled the clutch out was that there was of course wear but not spectacular. What I did find unexpected was one of the oil rings on the clutch shaft was broken with a missing section I haven't found anywhere. What I have done is replace the plates, seals and the four oil rings. Is there anything else I should be changing/checking while I am at it (without pulling the entire transmission apart) I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com A tad late but that forward clutch pack is not fitted correctly, It needs to be no more than 1mm if splines sticking out if that is am 8mm thick tool ? also don't forget to use the CI ring tool to hold the rings in place.
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Post by mra-minis on Jan 22, 2023 14:09:22 GMT
Got the parts back from being machined and was in the process of assembling it. It seems the rebuild kit is for a 1275 so has the incorrect thickness (too thin) intermediate pressure plate. Am I correct? The foulis overhaul book was made in the 70's so the information doesn't cover everything. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Was it bought from me ? I have recently added small bore kits to my lists, I would send you out the thicker steel to suit the smaller bore unit or you can make your forward clutch into the later type 1275 with 3 plate unit with a 1275 forward retainer plate
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 4, 2023 5:57:52 GMT
So now I am finally reassembling it and now I find that because the machinist only took off 3 thou the assemblies will not fit in the yellow bands.
What is the minimum removal for the yellow bands to fit? I guess I should just get the standard bands?
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 4, 2023 22:45:52 GMT
Turns out the pipe was bent, I compared it to my faulty 1275s one and borrowed its one. Basically went straight on then. Now pulled off the front cover as the manual said there should be two o rings on the front cover. When I previously had the cover off I only put one as that is what came off but it seemed wrong (it wasn't wide enough). Now that I have it off again it doesn't look like there is enough room for a second O ring. What is correct? About to check the manual but I assume all three brake bands should have equal play? The left one has significantly more than the others and has the nuts adjusted further down. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com The early units had 2 O ring grooves on the gasket face for the filter head, initially they were a copper ring, later changed to rubber then removed all together in favour of a gasket with copper rings embedded in the same way as a head gasket
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 4, 2023 22:49:30 GMT
So now I am finally reassembling it and now I find that because the machinist only took off 3 thou the assemblies will not fit in the yellow bands. What is the minimum removal for the yellow bands to fit? I guess I should just get the standard bands? I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com They only took off 0.003" ? then standard would work well, do make sure the bands are tight in the case on the 4 bosses you may need to stretch them a little, keeping them round and not oval.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 5, 2023 8:44:27 GMT
Got the parts back from being machined and was in the process of assembling it. It seems the rebuild kit is for a 1275 so has the incorrect thickness (too thin) intermediate pressure plate. Am I correct? The foulis overhaul book was made in the 70's so the information doesn't cover everything. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Yes this is correct, there have been a lot of great advances with the AP2 since the 70's be careful of mixing parts as it may not be obvious that certain parts should not go together.
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 19, 2023 11:07:45 GMT
It is back together and hasn't immediately blown up so it is hopefully ok. I just need to readjust the selector and top up the oil before I can determine if the pressures are ok. Is there a good way to test if the gears actually work outside of the car? I previously tested an engine which looked ok but then later when I installed it, it went nowhere (it is in another thread). If the pressures are ok I will install it.
It has got to be better than my sister's matic which has a whine and people who have no idea about ap2s say it is ok. It will just be my problem when it fails
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 19, 2023 23:38:02 GMT
It is back together and hasn't immediately blown up so it is hopefully ok. I just need to readjust the selector and top up the oil before I can determine if the pressures are ok. Is there a good way to test if the gears actually work outside of the car? I previously tested an engine which looked ok but then later when I installed it, it went nowhere (it is in another thread). If the pressures are ok I will install it. It has got to be better than my sister's matic which has a whine and people who have no idea about ap2s say it is ok. It will just be my problem when it fails I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com The only real way is under load, a stall test will give you a good indication, its in the workshop manual or comes with the 18G502 pressure testing kit from www.vlchurchill.co.ukYour sisters could be a couple of different issues, it really depends on the noise, but if it feels like gears there are two possibilities, the first is worn or damaged idler (transfer) gears and or bearings collapsing, this is more prevalent on older types with the smaller idler bearing ! the other one is were most get it so wrong and that is the input gear "PRE-LOAD" not free play !!! this is important to get right, shims are available in 0.003" or 0.012" and the setting gauge is 18G1089 all available from AP2.world. The preload is for the main gear set and as they are Bevel Spiroidal gears it's very important to get it right !
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 21, 2023 9:47:04 GMT
I probably won't do it for this engine but I will have to make output shaft locking tools so that I can do the stall test. One mini place near me has output locking tools that I could borrow but they are for Hardy-Spicer joints and require the engine to be tied down. He has them from when his dad worked on autos but he doesn't do them and doesn't know much about them.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 21, 2023 15:34:35 GMT
I probably won't do it for this engine but I will have to make output shaft locking tools so that I can do the stall test. One mini place near me has output locking tools that I could borrow but they are for Hardy-Spicer joints and require the engine to be tied down. He has them from when his dad worked on autos but he doesn't do them and doesn't know much about them. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Do you know if he would sell them ?
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 21, 2023 22:13:34 GMT
Not sure, he possibly would to me. Not sure if they are a factory tool or homemade, it was a couple of years ago that he showed me.
I don't remember seeing a factory tool listed for this job?
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 22, 2023 11:07:07 GMT
Not sure, he possibly would to me. Not sure if they are a factory tool or homemade, it was a couple of years ago that he showed me. I don't remember seeing a factory tool listed for this job? I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com For holding Hardy Spicer output flange there is a factory tool (18G669), no need for pot joints though as there is nothing to do up
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 22, 2023 12:36:24 GMT
Not sure, he possibly would to me. Not sure if they are a factory tool or homemade, it was a couple of years ago that he showed me. I don't remember seeing a factory tool listed for this job? I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com For holding Hardy Spicer output flange there is a factory tool (18G669), no need for pot joints though as there is nothing to do up The tools I am talking about are for I believe testing the stall speed out of the car. I was told they were for testing the transmission so I guess it has to have been the stall speed test.
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 27, 2023 13:19:40 GMT
I have just taken it for a test drive and it is working perfectly.
While it has been off the road I have purchased old equipment (wheel aligner, wheel balancer and engine analyser) to fix all the other issues the mini had so now it is all good. I have also replaced a lot of cheap suspension components with ones sourced from Japan as many failed in the short time I had it on the road. The last issue is finding a quality speedo cable, I am looking at getting one made by flexible drive
If it is running like it should, I intend on driving it 800km each way on a trip in a couple of weeks.
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Post by jockduck on Mar 28, 2023 9:58:53 GMT
Congrats, good to hear. where is your trip to? Jock
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Post by 6886auto on Mar 29, 2023 3:46:54 GMT
Congrats, good to hear. where is your trip to? Jock Lightning Ridge from Brisbane. I do it a couple of times a year just never in a mini.
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