jime17
Senior Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jime17 on Aug 29, 2012 22:26:23 GMT
Hi folks, I'm rediscovering the joys of owning a classic mini.... 1990 - 998 mayfair auto with front discs. test drove fine, done approx 400 miles in it now and yesterday noticed a high pitched squeal sounding like it originated from the front off side wheel area. The only way i can describe it is like someone a playing note on the violin badly (dont ask me which note. I'm not a musician) Its not a constant squeal, more like a throb if you understand what i mean It seems cyclical in that it is being made by something that is rotating rather than maybe squeaking suspension components and its repetition increases with increased roadspeed. It does this regardless of being in gear or freewheeling. It is worse at speeds between 0 - 30 and then it seems to be less invasive, but maybe that's the engine noise drowning it out. It doesn't seem to do it when the car is cold, but a few minutes into a journey and it reappears. steering left or right seems to make it less obvious and so does braking. My immediate thoughts were either wheel bearing or cv joint. I guess my questions are as follows, 1. How would I eliminate / confirm those as causes? 2. If it was a wheel bearing, is it such a pain in the backside to do that its not worth trying to re-grease it and see how it goes rather than change the bearing whilst its being done ? 3. any other possible causes and how could I confirm them? Thanks everyone for your help. Jim
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Post by asahartz on Aug 30, 2012 22:06:07 GMT
A CV joint wouldn't do that. Wheel bearing is possible, but you can test it by jacking up the car and spinning the wheel - you'll feel roughness if the bearing is failing. Also, if you grip the wheel and try to shake it side to side you'll feel play. If it is the wheel bearing you need to change it; when they finally give way they can cause real problems.
It strikes me that it could also be a sticking brake caliper causing the pads to drag on the disc.
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Post by jockduck on Sept 1, 2012 10:41:35 GMT
One other possiblity that has tricked me a couple of times is a front wheel bearing inner race slipping on the flange because the big nut is not tightened correctly, Jock
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jime17
Senior Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jime17 on Sept 3, 2012 22:18:01 GMT
Hi guys, got an update.
had wheel off. caliper pistons seized. Outside pad must have been pressing on the disk as its almost disintegrated.
released it and noise has stopped, but obviously cant drive it like that.
Waiting for the postie to turn up with the seal kit, new pistons and pads.
Any advice on removing the pistons? I can push one out through the brake pipe hole I think, but am wondering about the other.
I was hoping to pump it out most of the way using the brake pedal pressure while keeping the other one G clamped in and then pulling it out with mole grips..... is that do-able?
I dont have an air compressor to blow it out like i've read.
I also tool the bolts out of the caliper and split it in order to knock the stuck piston back in and free it up a bit.
I've ordered a bridge seal as well. any advice on how to make sure I get a good seal?
Cheers guys.
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Post by joakwin on Sept 9, 2012 8:56:36 GMT
im not a fan of rebuilding brake calipers, if it were me i would order another caliper
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Post by kalkat on Sept 9, 2012 21:49:53 GMT
The only thing I can suggest is that you work in a scrupulously clean area. Employ lint free cloths for cleaning. Use alcohol to ensure mating surfaces are clean and ensure there is no damage to the jointing surface, or burrs around the edges.
Best of British - Emma
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jime17
Senior Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jime17 on Sept 25, 2012 21:30:15 GMT
thanks all,
pumped the pistons out (easy!!) replaced the seals, then I replaced the O ring sealing the two halves and cleaned everything before I put it back together. Seems to be ok touch wood. Didn't cure the squeak though.
Still not sure about whats causing it.
It seems to start after about 20 mins driving. I jacked the front up on both sides and put it in drive and there was no noise. Maybe its the wheel bearing as its not occurring when theres no weight on it? Theres no play in it by the way when I checked. what say you guys? I have a recording of the noise but not sure if you can attach files to this forum.
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Post by notamini on Sept 26, 2012 14:21:22 GMT
I've heard that sometimes it's the spacer between the wheel bearings. If it gets sloppy, you get that noise. Makes sense it would go away if the wheel were lifted and no load on it. Try torquing your wheel nut or removing the ass'y and looking for wear on the mating surfaces. It will likely look shiny and may not even be burred or scored. I've also heard that new replacement bearings have this part built in.
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jime17
Senior Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jime17 on Sept 26, 2012 21:42:31 GMT
Thanks. I'll try that when I get myself a big bar and socket. I'll try your suggestion, but then will change the bearing even if it cures the problem. At least i'll know for the future.
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 15, 2013 17:47:25 GMT
A CV joint wouldn't do that. Yes it would, jack up and make safe with axle stands or similar,then holding the wheel at 12:00 and 06:00 positions rock the wheel, if it is loose then it could be wheel bearing, hub failure or CV wearing where the bearings fit, once stripped down check the CV joint for a step, also check the bearings outers are tight in the hub, if not then replace the parts that are worn + the wheel bearing assembly. Tighten to the ROVER correct procedure. Regreasing is NOT going to help. A give away to the above is a fine brown rusty dust around the hub nut.
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 15, 2013 17:58:30 GMT
Hi guys, got an update. I dont have an air compressor to blow it out like i've read. This is potentially VERY dangerous and should be avoided at all cost, the reason is simple, as high pressure air escapes it expands due to the pressure, ie. 8bar would expand 8 times, this would cause a rapid expansion and flying brake fluid can easily penetrate eyes, mouth, nasal etc..... Always assemble brake components using rubber grease NOT brake fluid, as brake fluid has minimal lubrication properties making it very easy to damage a seal upon assembly.
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