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Post by clifford on Nov 9, 2022 18:09:10 GMT
One of the terminals on my inhibiter switch was very wobbly, then it fell off when I wiggled it to see just how loose it was! As I had nothing to lose by trying to take it apart to see if it was repairable, I thought I'd at least have a go. Turned out to be simplicity itself so here are some pics. - Terminal Broken Off - 
Drilling out where casing is staked in place -  Prising casing from plastic switch body - 
Contents Removed -  The old broken rivet was pulled out and I found an M2.5 screw that was a perfect fit to replace it. Didn't have any M2.5 nuts but I found some threaded brass inserts so used one of those. I also soldered it in place just as added precaution.  
Cleaned it all up, re-greased it and re-assembled. Turned casing 1/8 turn and re-staked thus - 
If only all jobs were as straightforward as this  ! |
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Post by jockduck on Nov 10, 2022 10:18:57 GMT
Well done, one of my pet hates is riveted electrical connections, I know that 90 % of them cause no bother but the amount of angst that the others cause with high resistance joints volt drops etc.
Jock
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Post by ianhosk on Jun 8, 2023 7:47:16 GMT
Just done this job to mine, those small copper contact points inside were all black and corroded (I guess its only to be expected after 50+ years). Very easy to clean up and now all working perfectly. Thank you for this post!
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Post by 6886auto on Jun 15, 2023 10:38:19 GMT
Just done this job to mine, those small copper contact points inside were all black and corroded (I guess its only to be expected after 50+ years). Very easy to clean up and now all working perfectly. Thank you for this post! Does your one have a relay fitted as well as the starter solenoid? If it doesn't then the A+ starter will burn out the inhibitor switch (or not always work properly) as it uses a lot of current. |
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 29, 2023 19:06:20 GMT
Well done, one of my pet hates is riveted electrical connections, I know that 90 % of them cause no bother but the amount of angst that the others cause with high resistance joints volt drops etc. Jock I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world But what alternative wold you prefer ? |
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 29, 2023 19:08:59 GMT
Just done this job to mine, those small copper contact points inside were all black and corroded (I guess its only to be expected after 50+ years). Very easy to clean up and now all working perfectly. Thank you for this post! Does your one have a relay fitted as well as the starter solenoid? If it doesn't then the A+ starter will burn out the inhibitor switch (or not always work properly) as it uses a lot of current. I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world Are you saying the solenoid coil on the pre-engaged is pulling a higher current than the switch can handle ? It would be interesting to check the values, cold this simply be down to higher resistance within a damaged switch ? |
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Post by 6886auto on Jul 29, 2023 21:27:30 GMT
Does your one have a relay fitted as well as the starter solenoid? If it doesn't then the A+ starter will burn out the inhibitor switch (or not always work properly) as it uses a lot of current. I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world Are you saying the solenoid coil on the pre-engaged is pulling a higher current than the switch can handle ? It would be interesting to check the values, cold this simply be down to higher resistance within a damaged switch ? That is my experience. As far as I know all minis fitted with pre-engaged starters had relays fitted. I should measure the current sometime. People say the gemini starters that get put in minis use almost 40a so definitely require a relay. I assume the mini ones aren't much different, when I put in an A+ into a 68 the inhibitor switch got hot and would only intermittently start. I have seen a similar issue with a TK bedford with a factory Chevy 292. It didn't have a relay fitted from factory and 50 years later the starter switch can't handle the high current of the pre-engaged starter solenoid. Probably in good condition the mini inhibitor and ignition switch will work without a relay but the factory recognised the issue and fitted a relay. |
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 1, 2023 20:31:01 GMT
I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world Are you saying the solenoid coil on the pre-engaged is pulling a higher current than the switch can handle ? It would be interesting to check the values, cold this simply be down to higher resistance within a damaged switch ? That is my experience. As far as I know all minis fitted with pre-engaged starters had relays fitted. I should measure the current sometime. People say the gemini starters that get put in minis use almost 40a so definitely require a relay. I assume the mini ones aren't much different, when I put in an A+ into a 68 the inhibitor switch got hot and would only intermittently start. I have seen a similar issue with a TK bedford with a factory Chevy 292. It didn't have a relay fitted from factory and 50 years later the starter switch can't handle the high current of the pre-engaged starter solenoid. Probably in good condition the mini inhibitor and ignition switch will work without a relay but the factory recognised the issue and fitted a relay. I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world Can you show me which wiring drawing you are looking at ? |
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Post by 6886auto on Aug 2, 2023 3:23:53 GMT
That is my experience. As far as I know all minis fitted with pre-engaged starters had relays fitted. I should measure the current sometime. People say the gemini starters that get put in minis use almost 40a so definitely require a relay. I assume the mini ones aren't much different, when I put in an A+ into a 68 the inhibitor switch got hot and would only intermittently start. I have seen a similar issue with a TK bedford with a factory Chevy 292. It didn't have a relay fitted from factory and 50 years later the starter switch can't handle the high current of the pre-engaged starter solenoid. Probably in good condition the mini inhibitor and ignition switch will work without a relay but the factory recognised the issue and fitted a relay. I can be contacted on sales@ap2.world Can you show me which wiring drawing you are looking at ? I have basically never looked at a mini wiring diagram, I just work it out based on the colour codes. Are you trying to find ones with pre-engaged starters and no relay? I have never checked if there were any fitted like this, from what I had read when I first saw the issue they all had relays. |
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