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Post by automike on Mar 19, 2010 15:27:25 GMT
Top tip here, equiped with a new gasket and a couple of o'rings, its possible to remove the front cover off the auto in situ and remove the valve block for cleaning and ajust the brakebands too. One criteria is the the surrounding area MUST be clean so no grit or dirt enters the auto... I think the auto box is not as complicated beast as folk make out. Cleaning the valve block and justing the brakebands can make a world of difference to the performance. suprising how much sludge builds up in the valve chest, restricting flow and can cause sticking valves.... Mike
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Post by Holly on Mar 19, 2010 20:58:38 GMT
ooh i'd love to see some piccys of this being done if you have any
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Post by automike on Mar 20, 2010 12:13:33 GMT
will post some Sunday,,,, just been out realining and sealing exhaust... mike
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Post by Admin/Founder 2 on Mar 20, 2010 12:13:46 GMT
Ill Second Hollys Request if you have any Piccys?
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Post by automike on Mar 20, 2010 15:22:35 GMT
no worries,, loaded up 158 pics on to photobucket, and will post appropirate links sunday..... also some good shots of changing the forward clutch plates.....
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Post by notamini on Mar 21, 2010 21:11:20 GMT
Can't wait to look at these pic either! I just received 3 new books from EBay. They came from a chap in Australia. Paid $15 AU for them. Titles are: Service Training Notes for "E" Series Transverse Engine Range. Service Training Notes A. P. Automatic Engine 1100 Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual Suppliment. I'm planning on looking into the legalities of transfering them to PDF on disc. If possible then I plan to SHARE them!
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 19, 2015 10:26:41 GMT
Top tip here, equiped with a new gasket and a couple of o'rings, its possible to remove the front cover off the auto in situ and remove the valve block for cleaning and ajust the brakebands too. One criteria is the the surrounding area MUST be clean so no grit or dirt enters the auto... I think the auto box is not as complicated beast as folk make out. Cleaning the valve block and justing the brakebands can make a world of difference to the performance. suprising how much sludge builds up in the valve chest, restricting flow and can cause sticking valves.... Mike When you say adjusting the brake bands, I hope all you mean is adjusting the clearance to fall within the desired tolerance of between 1 and 2 mm or 0.040" and 0.080" ? if not then what are you adjusting and why ?
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Post by simonw on Nov 20, 2015 9:38:25 GMT
Never really got a follow up on this did we ? Pictures would have been nice
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Post by notamini on Nov 20, 2015 16:26:24 GMT
Wow! I'd forgotten all about this. YES! Please post the pictures. I'm about to perform this operation for my first Spring run. Can't believe it was 2010 when this was posted. That means I've been running my auto box for that long with an intermittently flaring top gear for the first hour and squawking 1st and 2nd after 30 min driving.
Mark ON,Canada
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 22, 2015 21:12:31 GMT
Wow! I'd forgotten all about this. YES! Please post the pictures. I'm about to perform this operation for my first Spring run. Can't believe it was 2010 when this was posted. That means I've been running my auto box for that long with an intermittently flaring top gear for the first hour and squawking 1st and 2nd after 30 min driving. Mark ON,Canada You do realise that the flaring and squawking will be causing damage internally that will require more than a rebuild ?
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Post by notamini on Nov 23, 2015 17:51:55 GMT
None of these things happen unless I push it to perform. Not my style. So hopefully all is good. I have only put 3,000 mi. on him in 11 years.
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Post by mra-minis on Dec 2, 2015 18:55:15 GMT
None of these things happen unless I push it to perform. Not my style. So hopefully all is good. I have only put 3,000 mi. on him in 11 years. In that case try resealing the filter gasket as you may just have low pressure
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Post by notamini on Dec 6, 2015 15:14:20 GMT
Do you mean transmission pressure? Oil gauge is never below 40 psi.
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Post by mra-minis on Dec 6, 2015 16:39:42 GMT
Do you mean transmission pressure? Oil gauge is never below 40 psi. Yes, Transmission pressure could be bleeding away at the filter gasket interface, the later gaskets are not really that good, I am in talks with a company that makes gaskets, to remake the older style with the copper inserts. The engine oil pressure on your cabin gauge would not really tell you a great deal, because if the engine is worn the pump can easily maintain pressure but at the sacrifice of oil pressure going to the transmission, so in reality, when changing your oil always always drain into a spotlessly clean receptacle that way you can see if you have metallic or other debris in your engine which would show an issue... the transmission pressure is a lot higher than your engine pressure so anyone performing this test would need a decent pressure gauge.
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Post by notamini on Dec 8, 2015 0:05:23 GMT
quite aware of the pressure differences. I have info somewhere telling me what it should be for the different gears and how to test it. My filter is the large short cartridge type. Does the same apply? Keep in mind that the car only has 27,000 mi. on it.I have a stock of NOS filters too.
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Post by mra-minis on Dec 8, 2015 2:18:42 GMT
quite aware of the pressure differences. I have info somewhere telling me what it should be for the different gears and how to test it. My filter is the large short cartridge type. Does the same apply? Keep in mind that the car only has 27,000 mi. on it.I have a stock of NOS filters too. Sorry chap, I was answering for others in mind... yes the same applies the filter is different as it faces outwards on the 1100 / 1300 I found that the low mileage units are those that are most at risk....
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joe11
Junior Member
Posts: 5
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Post by joe11 on Oct 27, 2016 18:41:17 GMT
I took a 1994 1275 valve block completely apart, not just the front cover off, I found the short metal end plugs at the ends of each gallery seemed to jam at an angle in their alloy bore and with less patience than usual i decided to knock them out using a drift, This caused a shaving of alloy bore to occur damaging the end of each gallery hole in the valve block, Im not sure if the plugs went at an angle when i moved them out or the retaining clips over time wore a raised edge on the metal plugs circumference next to the circlip groove, I also found some of the guts of each bore (pistons and what have you) seemed to catch at the start of each hole as they were pushed out which i suspect also may have caused some damage though not as much as the end plugs did.
Ive now lost confidence in using this valve block and have now at quite expense bought another late failure box for the valve block. So i just want to share this experience with others as im not so keen on fully stripping a valve block in the future, It may be a better idea to do what Auto Mike 1st suggested on this post and just separate the block body and inspect for debris and wash it out as a mostly assembled unit.
The condition of the rest of the gearbox that the valve block came from was like new, im not sure if it was reconditioned or just very low miles, but compared to the other 5 gearboxes I've seen in bits this one was absolute new looking the sintered clutches were immaculate as were the steel plates. even compared to a 998 box i repaired that had only covered 25k.
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Post by mra-minis on Oct 28, 2016 8:07:34 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Mentioned this several times in the past, when they are new they go together fairly easily, but once you strip down a used valve body assembly then it is very rarely going to go back together and work correctly.
Like others over the years I too have tried all manner of ideas to rebuild the valve pucks and associated parts only for it to lead to tears relatively quickly, but the catch is, they simply do not need to be stripped down any further than the valve body cover, valve chest (don't turn them over either as the clips will fall out..
To recap....
Remove the 1/4" un bolts, do not turn over... remove the top cover. lift off the valve chest (never turn it over) remove the steel plate and flutter valve (little flat steel plate valve about 1" (25mm) in length)
now the cleaning stage..... clean it, once clean clean the cleaner and then clean again.. dust can be 0.0004" (0.010mm) this is large enough to jam up a valve, now package in a clean sealed bag and clean the other parts, once all clean, oil and reassemble you will need to hold the flutter valve in place with rubber grease.
Reassemble the top cover and fit the bolts, if your VB has a park facility then you will have 3 longer bolts these screw into the park assembly on the bottom cover. torque setting is very low, anything higher than the prescribed setting will distort the assembly and failure will occur.
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Post by mra-minis on Oct 28, 2016 8:11:28 GMT
I took a 1994 1275 valve block ... The condition of the rest of the gearbox that the valve block came from was like new, im not sure if it was reconditioned or just very low miles, but compared to the other 5 gearboxes I've seen in bits this one was absolute new looking the sintered clutches were immaculate as were the steel plates. even compared to a 998 box i repaired that had only covered 25k. Sintered plates where not fitted as standard to Later units so your unit must have been stripped down sometime in its life time.
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Post by limby2000 on Oct 28, 2016 17:47:14 GMT
I used petrol/parafin to wash my valve block. It wasnt until i bolted the two halves and the centre plate back together that i found a retainer clip in the bottom of the cleaning fluid. Needless to say i,d truned it over.
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Post by mra-minis on Feb 9, 2017 1:11:05 GMT
I used petrol/parafin to wash my valve block. It wasnt until i bolted the two halves and the centre plate back together that i found a retainer clip in the bottom of the cleaning fluid. Needless to say i,d truned it over. Doh !!
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