manual to auto

[munky]

hey guys, new to the forum.
iv just bought a clubman (manual) and need to convert to automatic. i have access to a 1275 auto from my old studio 2. what is needed from the auto donor car to do the swop? obviously engine/box,gear selector and subframe but is there anything else? are drive shafts or any thing different from the manuals?

cheers

tony

[shoutforjoy]

Hi Tony

First congratulations on doing a conversion the right way.

You really should get the driveshafts too as they may be different.

When I was looking at changing my auto engine over I was recommended to remove the whole lot from the donor car in one (engine/box, subframe, driveshafts, hubs etc.) Instead of lifting the the engine out of the car, lift the car off the engine. It certainly appears to be the most straightforward way.

I never did do it though as I sent the car off to have the transmission rebuilt.

[shoutforjoy]

perhaps you could start a project thread on here and show us all how you do it?

[munky]

im trying to decide at the mo. 1275 auto or 1.4 k series auto
:s

[mollymoke]

I agree, it is quite difficult to get the auto diff and box up and out of the car I'd undo the subframe and lift the car off.
As to your question, the drive shafts mainly depend on the fitment type, pot joints or bendix flexible joint, if they are the same you should be ok, disk brakes should be used for 1275, does the car have discs? If not just build the whole lot on the auto subframe and lift the car onto it
You will also need to mount the auto stick onto the floor and the cable needs to run through the floor....

[notamini]

Past consensus is the A+ is far superior to the K and the A+ is supposedly better than the A.

I agree with Mollymoke. Build the whole thing up on a front AUTO frame with an A or A+ auto 1275. One problem with the A+, if from a Metro or the like, is the exhaust manifold. You can make a custom dual exhaust Y fitting or buy aftermarket or use a 1100 or 1275 A auto manifold with old exhaust configuration.

1275 A auto's use Hardy-Spicer steel U-joint roller bearings not the rubber thingies.
1275 A+ auto's use inside pots (CV"s)
Caution... A+ potted drives have different splines on the shafts!
On the other hand, A shafts are all the same and only the end fittings for the different U-joints is different.
I can't tell you if the A+ shafts from a Metro or other will fit a Mini.
Did the later Minis have pots?
Differential components on A and A+ autos are also very slightly different and shouldn't be just swapped out willie-nillie. So swapping out pots for U-joints won't work.