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Post by coxy240 on Jul 7, 2014 19:15:24 GMT
Before I Ping Pong soothing else up thought it be good to ask the people that know. I need to change one of my ball joints so decided I would all the front end. I have all the new bits and I'm ready to go. Only thing is I don't have the right size spanner/socket. dose any one know the right size and is there any tricks in getting them of.
Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk
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Post by mra-minis on Sept 19, 2016 20:30:29 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
I'm hoping you have already fixed your ball joints, but for anyone else searching the size is 1.5" AF (Across Flats)
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Post by notamini on Sept 20, 2016 13:41:03 GMT
I just did my right side. You best be prepared for a greasy mess.
I needed a deep socket impact (found a 38mm or 1 1/2" perfect) and an impact wrench good to 125+ lbs. (this is a must) for removal only. They will be tight. Make absolutely certain you have the locking washers well clear of the hex edges. DO NOT use a fork on the ball!! Get an extractor. It sort of looks like a thumb and two fingers with screws between them. You will need to use a good deal of force to pop them. A tap with a brass or soft mallet on the wrench back does wonders without damaging the threads.
Try to pack lots of grease into your joints as you assemble them. Do not lock the ball housing until you are positive you have the correct thickness of shims under them. To select them, remove the bottom spring and assemble the other parts by hand tightness only. Select shims that will give you a bit of drag and then remove 2-3 thousandths. Same for the top. You will need to reassure the shims are right by torquing the housing down at about 40 ft/lbs. Once you feel it is right (it took me 8-9 tries), reinstall the spring. This will make it tight but just movable with good force by hand only. Now you need to torque them to 70 ft/lbs. If the top is just barely free and the bottom movable as described, tap the lock washer sides up on all flats of the housings.
To fit them back together, you will need to put force on the bottom (back) of the new ball so you can apply enough force on the nuts without spinning the joint. 35-40 ft/lbs bottom and 30 - 35 ft/lbs top. Don't forget the D shaped locking washer! Corners down around the rod and rounded end up against the nut.
I hope you can torque the axle nut afterward. You need 160 ft/lbs for the two cotter pin hole type and 190 ft/lbs for the one hole type. Torque it up to this value and then keep going, if needed, until the hole lines up to install the pin.
Hope this helps.
Mark
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Post by mra-minis on Sept 21, 2016 14:03:51 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
We always lap the ball joint in by hand, the more accurate and smooth you can make them the longer they last and the better they feel, smoother, never just "nip" up old ball joints as they wear oval and you will in all probability cause them to fail under fatigue as they bind up, I have seen and heard of far too many cars being written off due to this "money saving" racket.
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Post by notamini on Sept 21, 2016 15:12:47 GMT
Sorry Martin.
I don't quite follow you. Can you explain better what you mean by "by hand" and "nip up old joints"? Have I done something incorrectly?
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Post by mra-minis on Feb 9, 2017 22:17:25 GMT
Sorry Martin. I don't quite follow you. Can you explain better what you mean by "by hand" and "nip up old joints"? Have I done something incorrectly? Hi Mark, I was just adding to your post.... Safety 1) never never reuse old ball joints or nip up (tighten loose) ball joints this is old practice to pass an MOT but often ends in tears. 2) lap in the ball joints pin, cap nut and cup to get a good smooth round mating parts this cuts down on the wear and gives a smoother better feel, last a lot longer too. |
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Post by notamini on Feb 10, 2017 17:02:55 GMT
I will certainly keep it in mind. thanks.
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