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Post by Stu on Apr 21, 2016 22:11:00 GMT
I'm a long way off the engine re-build for my Felix project as I'm in the middle of the bodywork fabrication, but I'd like to make some mods to get my 998 auto nice and quick when its done. I don't want a basket case, but was thinking about a stage 3 head, roller rockers, a race cam and a tuned exhaust and manifold etc. The auto box will be fully re-built too and the suspension, steering etc will be upgraded from standard for handling efficiency. Does anyone have any comments on whether this looks ok for an Auto (in principle), as I'm looking to get optimum performance without overstressing the auto box too much. A question for Martin really (if you have any spec suggestions mate) but would welcome suggestions from anyone else reading too
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Post by wimfournier on Apr 22, 2016 17:02:54 GMT
Your torque converter will be the judge, I think. Because of the liquid nature of the converter you cannot do the tricks that are possible with the dry clutch where you can apply a stronger diafragma to get enough 'hold' to withstand the power your engine is developping. I think, a 'hot engine' will climb in revolutions very quick by nature, but, is there enough bottom power at low revs to overcome the engaging power of the converter.
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Post by limby2000 on Apr 22, 2016 17:13:08 GMT
Hi Stu, do what I've done, put a 1098 crank in it, I know you,ve got one laying around from your past post,s. I did originally have my block set up to run a MG cam ,but then after research deemed it not suitable. I eventually bit the bullet and paid 220 quid for a new sw5. Still about 6 month,s away from firing it up. Have been doing the gearbox while weathers been too cold for doing bodywork. Also have Sc injection setup which i,m yet to rig up the kickdown mech. There are lots of issues i,m coming across being auto, like some lcb manifold can foul around the diff housing.good luck Stu hope to view your post,s soon.
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Post by limby2000 on Apr 25, 2016 8:06:51 GMT
Was trial fitting the trigger wheel this weekend and could,nt understand why I could,nt get the sensor bracket to fit to the cam chain cover (although mine has an older cam belt kit). It turn,s out the curse of the auto has struck again. There,s a big square block of alloy that protrudes out into the area occupied by the sensor pick-up, after a bit of headscratching I welded a bracket on the other side of pulley, the trigger wheel has 360 degree adjustment. Just more issues auto related.
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Post by Stu on Apr 27, 2016 21:49:12 GMT
Cheers Terry. I've had a longer think about this and have decided to keep things standard. I'll consider some light upgrades after the cars completed.
Hopefully I'll update my project page fairly soon. Not done much recently but due to start again on Molly in the nect week or so.
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Post by limby2000 on Apr 28, 2016 9:13:43 GMT
Yep your probably right Stu, there,s so many variable,s that don't really apply to the manual version. I've changed lot,s of things at the same time as opposed to step by step (the safer option), it could all go wrong expensively. As it turns out Martin does a pick-up mount for auto,s. Who,d a guessed,lol.
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Post by Stu on Apr 28, 2016 14:26:24 GMT
I recon he'd fabricate us anything if we asked nicely enough and crossed his palms with silver
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Post by limby2000 on May 10, 2016 20:34:29 GMT
More absolute auto headaches, had my friend round weekend, only 4 degree,s out,so used an offset woodruff key like you do. Anyway when fitting up all the pulley ,trigger wheel,ect I've come to the conclusion it will be impossible to fit the fan belt on without taking off the pulley side engine mount support, which is simple when is out but not so when in car. May have to modify the engine support. Also having second thought,s about the trigger wheel pick-up as being down the back side may have future adjustment issues. And finally starting to look at hooking up the kickdown mech to the sc injection throttle body. It turns out the throttle crank,s in the opposite direction. Oh the fun.
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Post by limby2000 on Jun 13, 2016 17:35:41 GMT
Connected the kickdown mech to the throttle body using some donor parts from other engines. The throttle cycles the other way round so had to connect to the back of the t/b bringing the linkage even further away from the engine (not perfect). It seems to work good, however not sure that it will clear bulkhead fully. May tweak or even change design yet. I made up another design that went over the top of throttle wheel from the left and pulled up. It worked well up to half throttle but then angle became awkward for mech. Any idea,s people. Attachments:
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Post by notamini on Jun 14, 2016 14:59:42 GMT
Do you think you could design a cable assembly to work the same as today's autos?
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Post by limby2000 on Jun 17, 2016 19:08:22 GMT
This is final installment, sort of followed the original style, but with my own twist. A lot more solid now, does,nt flap around, and should now clear bulkhead beam. Attachments:
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