Auto box engine seized?

[c49uta]

Hi hoping some one can help i done a oil and filter change on the 1275 auto I used 20w50 oil and the car ran ok after.I parked it up for a week and tried to take it out and it was as if the gears were slipping the engine was racing and the car was going nowhere. I left it idling thinking maybe the oil in cold then the engine stopped suddenly with a click sound. When I try and start it again it just makes the same click noise. Ive tried a few things,I have removed the starter and i cant turn the gearing wheel. I am not certain if it's the engine that's seized or the auto box preventing the engine turning. Also I've tried rolling the car back and forth in d 123 and reverse the car just seems to roll freely is this normal for a auto?

[wimfournier]

To answer the last question first; yes, it is normal that you can move the car with the engine not turning and the manette for chosing gears in all positions except P (if your car has this choice). It is the torque converter that connects the crankshaft with the gearbox internals. There is oil in the converter and only when the oil is filling the inner circumference by centrifugal power it engages.
",I have removed the starter and i cant turn the gearing wheel." You write.
With the gearing wheel, do you mean the little sprocket on the end of the axle of the starter motor? Or, do you mean the flywheel on tthe crankshaft?
In the first case there is something wrong with the inner parts of the starter motor I think. In the second case you have a bigger problem.
But it is not the gearbox preventing the engine to turn over.

I'll have a loo this afternoon if you had put an other question on this subject.

[c49uta]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I meant the flywheel the starter moves ok. So that would make me think the engine has seized or worse something as broken inside as it just stopped with a click. I am trying to put some deisel in through the spark plug holes in the hope that it might unseize.

[wimfournier]

Well, when the starter motor can't turn the crank, may be there is something stuck inside.
You could try to turn the crank against the normal direction. When it moves, it's obvious there is something stuck inside.
To turn the crank you could use a screw driver against the teeth of the starter ring in the hole where the starter motor sits normaly.
When it will turn backwards, it could be that there is a valve in contact with a piston.

In that case you could take the rockerbox off the engine and loosen the nuts that hold the rocker axle on top off the head.
All the valves come up into their valve seats and when a valve was in contact with a piston, it is freed now.
If this is the case you have to open up the distribution box in front of the engine to see if the chain is broken or the key is broken that holds the pulley on the crank in his place.

Whan you take the rockerbox off before you try to turn the crank backwards, you can see if the rockers move and valves are pushed down and come up.
If so, than youmay conclude that the distribution chain is moving, so that's oké.

Inform us what you find out.

[limby2000]

Lets not beat about the bush Chris, you have major mechanical failure. At best youve got a bent valve, at worst a broken crank or dropped rod thats locked up the engine. Wimfournier made some good points regarding what to check first.Tbh reading your original post regarding its general running, it sounds like your gearbox was starting to fail. Also you should be running 10w40 ,which could be contributing to the clutch/gear slip. Keep us informed of your findings. If the worse is realised, theres a member on here called Albernache who lives in scotland, and he had a spare late auto engine that was going cheap.

[richard1]

I'll question a couple of things here.

First, I'm not sure how you are trying to turn the flywheel. How are you doing that? Before looking for something drastic, I'd try turning it without spark plugs. With the plugs out it should turn over easily. If not, turn back and forth until you hear something clank.

Don't try to "unseize"with diesel. You don't want diesel in your bearings or you will have a bigger repair bill.

But going back to your original post. You said you changed the oil and it ran ok. 20W-50 is more viscous than advised, and if it was oil for gasoline engines (API SN), It would cause the clutch slipping slipping you describe when the engine revs and the car doesn't move very well. It needs MA2 motorcycle oil (for traction), preferably 10W-40.

How far did you drive it when you changed it? Enough for the oil to leak out? With more than 160 psi of pressure in the oil filter, it is real easy to pump out a lot of oil quickly. Always check for leaks in Reverse where pressure is high.

Seizing is only possible if you ran out the oil. If not seized, but stuck, look for something else broken as suggested.

[c49uta]

Thanks for the replys guys. I was trying to turn the flywheel I removed the starter and the plugs. I've tried to turn the flywheel forward and backwards but it's not moving at all I do think now it's something more serious. When I originally changed the oil it was at the maximum level I took the car for a drive with the new oil and it drove perfect the new oil seemed to fix the slipping. It wasn't till a week later I checked the oil and it was over the maximum level that's when the gears didn't work. I think the only option now is to take out the engine strip it down and have a look inside see what's up

[richard1]

Do you know that checking the oil in these cars is after starting, moving through the gears, then turning off and waiting a few minutes?

[c49uta]

I didn't know that in the beginning Richard1 but I seen that online somewhere thanks. I have now started to strip down the engine took the cylinder head off and just got to disconnect the drive shafts so on can take the block out but that will need to wait now as I don't get much time to spend on the mini. Still can't turn the bottom of the engine so I will need to wait till I get it out to see what's gone wrong. Thanks for all the advice and help so far guy's I apreatiat it thanks.

[c49uta]

I have managed to find another engine it's a 1275 metro turbo engine. The guy that's selling it says the turbo has been taken off and it now has hif44 carbs. What do you guys think should I go for it or stay clear of it?

[notamini]

My thoughts have always been, if you can't examine it running or the seller will not stand behind it in writing, walk away. Maybe he bagged it out with the turbo so he swapped the turbo out, likely wanted it for another lump, and quickly put a carb on it for show or whatever.

Just my thoughts.
Mark

[c49uta]

See what I am worried about is the compression of the engine. Being a turbo engine and designed to run low compression would skimming the head and chucking a carb on it work? I mean would the engine still run property

[c49uta]

Good news is have managed to track down a good reconditioned 1275 auto engine so happy☺

[mra-minis]

Aug 30, 2016 17:31:19 GMT c49uta said:

See what I am worried about is the compression of the engine. Being a turbo engine and designed to run low compression would skimming the head and chucking a carb on it work? I mean would the engine still run property

The CR of the MG Metro turbo was 9.3:1 so it would run perfectly well without a turbo, however it would be lame as a really lame thing, the cam is standard 1275 nothing special the head has fairly small valves as the EX are sodium filled for cooling and that requires larger stems.... it used to be done in the mid 80's because too many garages misdiagnosed turbo faults.

However I suspect it has been damaged and another 1275 substituted into it's place...

[c49uta]

Thanks for your reply mra. I wasn't sure about this engine so I decided to give it a miss I couldn't afford to gamble on it.

[mra-minis]

I can be contacted on [e-mail]

Have you found an engine yet ?

[c49uta]

Yes I managed to get a metro 1275 auto engine so hopefully I will have the car back on the road in a week or so

[mra-minis]

I can be contacted on [e-mail]

Did it come with the metro engine bracket the fan belt end aluminium casting ? as there is somebody else on here who wants one.