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Post by c49uta on Sept 4, 2016 21:08:18 GMT
I am almost ready to remove the old engine. i still have the bottom engine mounts to undo and also the drive shafts to disconnect. What's the best way to disconnect them? I need to get the car onto the flatbed truck, so can I do this and leave the front wheels attached to the body?apologies if this is a stupid question as it's the first engine I have ever removed.
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Post by wimfournier on Sept 5, 2016 12:24:49 GMT
No, your question is not stupid. There is always a first time and before that you have better to wonder how it is fixed and as soon as you understand it get the work done.
Don't know what year your car is, but the older ones have very simple connections for the drive axels to the differential. Just flanges with four nuts to undo on each side. When the nuts are removed push the flanges in the direction of the respective wheels and the connection is loose. If necessary, lift the engine a bit and they come loose by themselves. With the engine out you can roll the car easily, but pay attention to the axels that hang loose not hitting somwhere.
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Post by c49uta on Sept 5, 2016 14:37:18 GMT
My mini is a 93 car last of the carbs. Will that be different from the early models?
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Post by wimfournier on Sept 5, 2016 15:40:26 GMT
Have a look at You Tube:
Classic mini inner pot joint removal
When your car has these 'pots' for connecting the drive axels to the differential, in this film it will be clear what you have to do.
But, I think yours has still the old fashioned flat flanges, bolted together with each four small nuts. And it is straight forward what you have to do when you look at them. Quite simple.
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Post by c49uta on Sept 5, 2016 18:39:59 GMT
Ok i will have a look thanks wimfournier for the help and advice. I will keep you updated with my progress.
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Post by richard1 on Sept 16, 2016 21:41:03 GMT
I've always taken mine out with the sub-frame. Of course that means it is harder to move around, but I just disconnect everything pull the axles/wheels/brakes out, and pull the body up over everything. A little over an hour for two people.
Possibly would be easier if I had the right sub-frame from the start instead of the one I modified, but pulling from the top also means taking out the brake booster.
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Post by mra-minis on Sept 19, 2016 20:21:46 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com A few myths.... 1) you do not need or want to remove hubs for safety reasons and there simply is no need. 2) you do not want to "strip the inner CV (ie remove boot etc) there simply is no need and why introduce dust to a clean joint for no reason. 3) ALL automatic mini engines can be removed from the top. 4) its not good practice to remove brake pipes (ie subframe) as it comes out the top and removing brake pipes is not good for safety reasons. 93 model year will have inboard sliding birfield joints AKA pot joints these can be removed using the Mini Spares tool www.minispares.com/product/Classic/18G1240.aspx or similar. The method for pot joints is slightly different... lift the engine just off the subframe and push across towards the radiator side (radiator removed) then wriggle the opposite pot joint out of the transmission and drop underneath, now lift the engine a little more and slide the unit over towards the converter end and do the same with the pot joint on the radiator side as you did the first one, now lift your engine. 1275 units will need to have the transmission front cover removed first. and as you get about level with the wing tops remove the speedo cable. to reinstall just reverse the process. |
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