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Post by robhill on Feb 22, 2017 21:45:42 GMT
Hi everyone
Can anyone give me any pointers on removing the torque converter please ?
I have purchased one of the correct puller but I cannot get it to budge it has even sheared a set of bolts in the process Is there something I'm not doing? I'm trying to remove the converter to locate an oil leak from behind it I'm assuming it is the main crank seal . Is there any info on changing this and purchasing the parts
Thanks in advance Rob
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Post by 69hcode on Feb 23, 2017 4:55:42 GMT
I've pulled two now. They are on pretty tight. Sounds like something breaking when they come off. I got my puller from Martin on here. My Torque converter seal was leaking. Martin can hook you up with one pretty quick. Can you post a picture of the puller you are using? Also where are you located? Might be someone local who could help.
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Post by jockduck on Feb 23, 2017 10:48:02 GMT
A good puller is a must, I do use a small pencil butane torch to put some heat into the bit of the converter that sits on the crank taper, use only a couple of minutes before the heat soaks into the crankshaft, been surprised a couple of times when the converter lets go, I usually leave the bolt in and backed off a few turns and with the thick washer taken out. I usually get the seal from a bearing shop, not exactly a standard size but not uncommon. The new seal needs to be installed correctly nice and square and to the correct depth. I made a tool made from 3 inch square tube. Jock
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Post by limby2000 on Feb 23, 2017 18:03:05 GMT
I know it sounds obvious but have you removed the locking keyway (under the t/c bolt), its common for people to take the bolt out and forget to remove this. That will cause the threads to strip as there will be no movement.
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Post by robhill on Feb 23, 2017 20:06:16 GMT
Hi everyone Thanks for the advice The puller I'm using is off e.bay That I think Martin has something to do with . By the locking ring I assume you mean the washer behind the main bolt. I have also removed a converter before but it came away fairly easy The engine is still in the car Which doesn't make it any easier . All I can do is try again I suppose
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Post by limby2000 on Feb 23, 2017 23:05:34 GMT
Martins pullers are good, their the same as the churchills ones. Try putting it on under a fair bit of load, then leave it over night, you can also try a heat gun,like the black & decker type, that way its not too much heat.
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Post by robhill on Feb 23, 2017 23:35:09 GMT
I have already tried leaving it overnight and with heat too but no joy Hopefully I will get time in the next few days to try again
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Post by richard1 on Mar 3, 2017 17:13:32 GMT
I can't imagine trying to do it in the car, but I could consider the strength of the bolts you are using. I had to use a puller available here, and it was not fun either of the three times I did it. Once I had the torque on it, the hammer gave it the shock it needed to come off.
Aside from the seals (inner and outer), check the plates below the bolts. That is where mine was leaking in the end. I loosened the 6 bolts, cleaned the area with spray cleaner (with little straw), and bolted it after applying super glue to the plates. End of leaks.
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Post by limby2000 on Mar 3, 2017 19:33:46 GMT
I must admit i too have stripped the bolts before. Dont they always say dont undo all 6x bolt,s because of the leak risk. Ive never taken a t/converter off in situ, its a bit claustrophobic in there.
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Post by 69hcode on Mar 4, 2017 3:12:45 GMT
I took it off in the car a couple times. I messed up the first seal. The hard part is getting to all the bolts on the cover. At least for me as my hands barely fit in some of those spaces. Plenty of room for Martin's puller.
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Post by robhill on Mar 4, 2017 14:55:20 GMT
Hi guys I have finally got the thing off plenty of heat helped . I had to remove the other three bolts in the end ion the converter as threads had stripped. I have two other converters to use so no problem there. Is there any info on removing the seals and refitting them? Also does anyone know where the seals are available from
Thanks
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Post by limby2000 on Mar 4, 2017 18:43:19 GMT
Martin,s always got them on the shelf, or jpats.Are you changing both, the transfer cover and the stator carrier seals?.
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Post by robhill on Mar 4, 2017 19:10:30 GMT
To be honest I'm not really sure what to change,oil was leaking from behind the converter I can see the main seal around the main shaft but I'm unsure what else to change so any advice will be very helpfull Thanks
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Post by limby2000 on Mar 4, 2017 21:46:19 GMT
If it was leaking from behind the t/c then its the big orange seal thats in the transfer cover, i think the replacements are all black now. I,m not sure you can change the other one on the stator carrier without removing the end cover, tbh the big one should solve your leak.
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Post by 69hcode on Mar 5, 2017 2:17:11 GMT
That's where mine was leaking from. I got a seal from martin.
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Post by robhill on Mar 5, 2017 10:39:55 GMT
Hi guys thanks for the advice Is the seal the one directly behind the t/c? Mine is black Or is it inside the transfer casing and do I need to get the casing off to access it Thanks
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Post by 69hcode on Mar 5, 2017 19:34:51 GMT
Directly behind the converter. Mine was black as well. Hard as a rock once I got it out. I just pushed the new one in by hand. Haven't had a leak from it.
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Post by limby2000 on Mar 5, 2017 19:55:47 GMT
Yeah, thats the usuall suspect. In most cases that,ll cure it. I know the converter 6 bolt leak is a known issue although i dont know of anyone thats suffered that. Perhaps it was only on the early (60-70s) t/c,s.
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Post by robhill on Mar 5, 2017 20:37:18 GMT
Ok guys for all the info Does anyone know the contact details for Martin or anyone who could supply me with a seal. Thanks.
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Post by 69hcode on Mar 6, 2017 2:57:50 GMT
This is how I get ahold of him. He probably has number where you could call him. I never bothered to get it since I'm in the states.
martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
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Post by richard1 on Mar 14, 2017 23:48:49 GMT
There are two seals and an o-ring to change when you get in there (or was it two o-rings?). Martin has them.
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Post by robhill on Mar 20, 2017 22:43:24 GMT
Quick update
I have finally got round to fitting the seal and all seems good I havnt took it on the road yet but the massive leak seems to have gone. One again thanks for all the advice.
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Post by robhill on Mar 20, 2017 22:45:55 GMT
Quick update
I have finally got round to fitting the seal and all seems good I havnt took it on the road yet but the massive leak seems to have gone. One again thanks for all the advice.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 21, 2017 2:01:02 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com And I thought it was bad that I was seeing double.... but now I'm reading it too Good luck Rob hope you have plenty of automatic miles to enjoy
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