Selecting Drive and doesn't always go in straight away.

[fluffedup]

I have a 95 Sprite 1275.

I've done the oil change.

When the engine is cold and I select drive and it goes in straight away however, it's missing reverse. After I've run the car and the engine is warm and I disengage drive then reengage drive it doesn't straight away. Sometimes it can take a few minutes. If I rev the engine it can BANG into gear. Also as it progresses through the gears it seems like it's missing 3rd however when it's in 4th and I select 3rd manually that works fine. 

Also when I changed the oil there was quite a few iron filing on the magnetic sump plug.

The questions are, can this be fixed and are all of the parts readily available? 

I'm in Wakefield. Is there anyone local to me that will take on this job if it can be fixed?

Thank you in advance.

[wimfournier]

Tell us what oil you used for the oil change.

[notamini]

Sounds like you need to follow the adjustment procedures for the shift cable. I appears to have the wrong length.

[mini]

I have the same problem, I just performed an oil change and it takes some time to engage. Was working great before the oil change, how did you solved the problem?

[wimfournier]

Same question of corse: What oil did you use (this time) and do you know what oil was in before.
When you have answered these questions, we can conclude something perhaps.

[richard1]

Tarija and Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Tell us specifically what oil, brand, spec, and viscosity, that you used. It makes a huge difference.

[mini]

I used Castrol GTX 20W-50. I don’t know which oil was there before since I purchased the car recently and this would be my first oil change. This morning, the canister started leaking, it seems that the O-Ring got out of place, I used the smaller one since the bigger one doesn’t fit.

[richard1]

Tarija and Santa Cruz, Bolivia
First of all, Castol GTX is for modern gasoline cars. It is their cheapest, entre level product, with the least protection to pass the API tests. And the AP transmissions hate 20W-50 oil, as it does not disperse properly from the clutch discs, causing them to spin.

Find 10W-40 Motorcycle oil that meets the JASO MA2 spec. It is thin enough to displace from the discs, does not have the extra slippery friction modifiers of modern car oils, but does have another type of friction modifiers that makes the discs want to grab each other instead of wear each other out.

As for the filter. Yes, the smaller o-ring is the right one (from most brands), but you have to make sure you got the old one out, and make sure the new one is very carefully seated, then hold the canister in place while screwing in the bolt. Sort of wiggle it as it gets close to make sure it settles down properly, then tighten to 14 psi. It is worth going to Harbor Freight and getting a $10 torque wrench when they are on sale or coupon. To not over tighten, or you will be on here looking for a new canister. Yes, changing the filter is a pain.

The sooner you get that oil out of there, the better. And you should be prepared for a second change (without bothering with the filter) after a day of driving, since the first oil you put in will not be changing out what is in the converter. That will mix with the new oil. The second change will have diluted it enough that it should show itself.

Hopefully that is all that is wrong, but you never know until you get the little stuff right

[mini]

Thanks for your reply. I had the time today to take the filter off and follow your steps to make it work. I purchased the torque wrench from Harbor Freight and I’m ready to give it a try again. After removing the canister, I found out that the O Ring is completely useless now, it lost its form. I now need a new O Ring or an alternative to seal the canister. Any suggestion? Should I buy a new filter just to get a new O Ring?

Thank you very much.

[mini]

Attaching a picture of the O Ring.

i.imgur.com/5PipZQ8.jpg

[richard1]

It is more of a gasket than an o-ring, as it is not round (cross section). I have not found a place that sells that size, and at one point modified my base to receive a different one, but found that it really needs to have that tapered fit down into the base, so changed bases again.

I wish I could buy the gasket separately, as I have a dozen or more filters without the right size (the filter itself is used in a lot of different cars and tractors, but with different gaskets).

Tarija and Santa Cruz, Bolivia

[mini]

What would you recommend me doing? Right now, the filter is sitting without the O-ring while I find a solution. I gave a really short drive like that and the car feels good, but it obviously leaks just a little bit.