Unhappy at top gear

[auburngator]

I started with this problem in my introduction post and received advise from 69hcode. I received my mini at the end of November. It is a Japan spec 92 with a 1.3 spi and auto gear box, with 158K kilometers on the clock. (and the all important A/C) I have no service history.

From day one I had some occasional chattering on take off. This is an intermittent problem. The real problem is that when shifting into top gear it squeals and slips. It does not do this in any other shifts. When I start in the morning (or after a long wait of hours) it does not do it until the 4th or 5th shift through the gears.

69hcode advised me to change the oil. I did. I put in 5 quarts of Castrol 10w40 Jaso MA-2 motorcycle oil. there is some improvement, but not for long. I changed it again after 250 miles and changed the filter. Now I have driven another 200 miles and am going to do another oil change,(my third) but am not optimistic that this will be my salvation.

I am trying to figure out where I need to go next. I love my mini and am afraid that I am doing damage by driving it. I have figured out that if I start out fast it shifts fine until I get up to about 60 KPH, then I let off and it will shift into top gear with out the squealing.

This does not solve the problem, but I hope it will not do more damage while driving it.

Is there more I can do, as a good shade tree mechanic, to help diagnose or solve the problem?

If I need transmission work done here in Central Florida, where do I go? How do I find some one who knows anything about this car and its  AP auto gear box?

Sorry for the long post, everyone's help is greatly appreciated.

[jockduck]

Sounds like a worn out top/reverse clutch, or for some reason its not getting full oil pressure to the Top clutch actuation, How does the car perform in reverse?
Jock

[auburngator]

I have no problem in reverse. I think an odd thing (and I don't know better) is that it does not do it when I start out. After it has sat for some hours, it will shift fine the first two or three times through the gears. then start to slip.

also if I shift manually it seems to do better.

Is this something that can be fixed without an entire rebuild? or is it one of those things where I am better off doing the whole thing while I am in there?

Money is an issue, but I bought it cheap, expecting some problems with a 25 year old car with no service history. I have the ability to get it fixed, if I can find someone to do it.

[69hcode]

It might just need the shift cable adjusted. Did you get the Haynes Manual for it?

[auburngator]

I did get the Haynes manual. I will be working on the car Saturday. I have to change the wheel bearings. I will check the cable adjustment. Hell I will try anything right now. I truly don't know what I will do if I need a rebuild. Does anyone know of anyone close (relatively speaking) that can look at it?

What kind of shop should I be looking for? I know I will not find someone who knows this type of car, so who is the next best bet to work on it? If it is closely related to the style of transmission found in a motorcycle, should I be looking for someone like that to look at it? Would the usual transmission shop, found everywhere, be able to do it? (If willing)

I don't want to spend all my money on shipping, if I can help it.

[auburngator]

What would the parts for a gearbox rebuild cost me? If I'm going to do it, I want to do it right. I plan on having this car for the long run.

[wimfournier]

Have you found this one already?  members.tripod.com/austin_america/id72.html

Read it thoroughly. One time you will read  'Not'  there should stand  'Note'  it's about the position of copper pipes.

Good luck!

[notamini]

Here is the link for JPat's catalogue. AP Parts list
Here is JPat's website JPAT.co.uk

[limby2000]

Hi, 158k is a lot even if it is in kilometres, when i stripped down my 89 mini 30 it had 56 thousand miles on it, it was flaring on 3rd-4th gear change. The clutch plate,s although worn still were not on the metal, the top and reverse band was on the metal and the piston/punger for it was moving about 12 mm!, its only supposed to be 1-2mm. Most of the o ring seals were hardened and the big piston seal on the forward clutch had various splits in it ( check out some of my old photo,s on here). My friend has an 83 mini city with only 18,000 miles which was flaring. It really depends how the engine has been looked after in the past regarding oil changes and driver abuse. Driving with a fault will only damage it more. Good luck with her.

[firept]

Hi. Don't be put off repairing the gearbox yourself, but do it soon as at the moment it is working do not wait until it breaks!

The engine and gearbox unit are very heavy and you will need assistance and an engine crane if you are to lift it out.
Before you start clean the engine and gearbox off on the outside so that you can eat you dinner off of it and keep it that way, cleanliness is next to godliness and that applies to auto boxes.
A good work bench(clean of course) and the only tools you need apart from all the normal workshop tools  is clutch plate / torque converter puller and the front clutch tool , you can make one from shim steel but the time it takes its probably easier to buy one. I found an air impact driver good for removal of the central bolt on the torque converter and the front pulley nut.
A good manual ...not haynes, plenty on here with links. Do it slowly and methodically take lots of pics (dedicate a cheap digital camera) close ups of each stage, sometimes worth a 'memo recorder' as well,  print off the gearbox exploded view from Jpat and stick it on the wall and dont think 'I will remember how that went ....you wont so take a pic it costs nothing and if you don't need it why worry. 
Get several cheap plastic boxes and self seal bags in different sizes from Wallmart  label and keep the parts safe.
Use paint brush cleaner (Klean strip brush cleaner) or similar to wash off parts remember keep it clean.
Allow at least a week to strip and rebuild do not rush! Make sure you have all of the parts to hand,  the overhaul kit was about £135.45 GBP at end of 2016 from JPAT that does not include the brake bands nor the clutch plates.
Oh and always ask if you are not sure, someone on here will help out.
Best of luck

[hennasxi]

I've been quoted £635.75 for the overhaul kit recently !!

[auburngator]

I don't know who you got the price from but at www.jpat.co.uk they quoted me just 342 GBP for the kit and clutches. Maybe yours included labor? You should contact them at JPat to get the parts