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Post by clifford on Feb 18, 2020 18:13:49 GMT
Hi All, When I bought my Nomad the engine/box came separately and was only partially re-assembled by the previous owner. Armed with some new gaskets I set down to finishing the job but came across this pipe in the box of bits - I've searched all the manuals I have but can find no reference to it in text or diagrams. It does seem to appear in one photo in the 'Austin America' article but that's misleading because I can only think it was placed there just for the photo and wouldn't be there when assembling the T/C housing. It seems to me that maybe the shorter leg should be inserted into this hole in the T/C housing - . . . . . then the longer leg fed into this hole when the housing is offered up to the gearbox casing - If anyone can shed any light I'd be very grateful. Many thanks, Clifford.
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Post by puddingmobile on Feb 20, 2020 3:44:40 GMT
Exactly where you said it goes is correct.
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Post by clifford on Feb 20, 2020 8:02:51 GMT
Many thanks indeed. Hopefully I'll be able to get this all back together today.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 1, 2020 11:42:26 GMT
Many thanks indeed. Hopefully I'll be able to get this all back together today. How did it go ?
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Post by clifford on Mar 2, 2020 18:32:09 GMT
Not going very well at all at the moment. Got the housing fitted OK but then had a fit of swearing at the Haynes manual when it came to torqueing up the input gear retaining nut. Very clearly states to fit the torque converter THEN tighten the input gear nut. Can't see how this can be done without somehow holding the input shaft/gear stationary and can't see how that can be done with the torque converter fitted! Haynes says to poke a screwdriver through a hole in top of the T/C housing! WHAT HOLE?
Thoroughly p****d off at the moment as I also have an issue with the subframe. Have said more about it all in the re-build thread I started.
Any advice, or even just words of encouragement, much appreciated.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 2, 2020 19:46:14 GMT
Not going very well at all at the moment. Got the housing fitted OK but then had a fit of swearing at the Haynes manual when it came to torqueing up the input gear retaining nut. Very clearly states to fit the torque converter THEN tighten the input gear nut. Can't see how this can be done without somehow holding the input shaft/gear stationary and can't see how that can be done with the torque converter fitted! Haynes says to poke a screwdriver through a hole in top of the T/C housing! WHAT HOLE?
Thoroughly p****d off at the moment as I also have an issue with the subframe. Have said more about it all in the re-build thread I started. Any advice, or even just words of encouragement, much appreciated. Hole in the converter was "deleted" from the later models, however it was never a recommended method due to the damage it could do to the vanes of the impeller, what subframe do you need ? Ok so the bad news is the converter has to come off buddy.
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Post by clifford on Mar 2, 2020 20:02:15 GMT
This is a real pain as I've torqued up the T/C now and don't have a puller for removal. Even if I could get it off again, I still don't see a safe way of holding the input shaft without a special tool.
As for the subframe, it's the early two bolt type, pre '76. If I give up on the auto then the one I've got will do just fine, it's in very good condition for 57 years old!
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 2, 2020 20:37:13 GMT
This is a real pain as I've torqued up the T/C now and don't have a puller for removal. Even if I could get it off again, I still don't see a safe way of holding the input shaft without a special tool. As for the subframe, it's the early two bolt type, pre '76. If I give up on the auto then the one I've got will do just fine, it's in very good condition for 57 years old! I see your issue, the subframe is going to be difficult but not insurmountable to correct as others have changed from a single bolt to a twin bolt by changing a few parts on the subframe. The converter will have to come off if you are going to persevere with the auto, I have brand new pullers for the converter if interested ? or #i could rent one to you ? or maybe somebody on here could lend you one ? As for holding the primary gear you could use a large pair of stillsons, not ideal but it sort of works ok, or again I could sell you one ?
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Post by clifford on Mar 3, 2020 8:28:45 GMT
Thanks for this. I'm going to take a step back for a few days, give my head a chance to clear then look at it again. Lots of other jobs to do on this project in the mean time, re-building hubs, rear suspension, bodywork, etc.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 3, 2020 19:32:37 GMT
Thanks for this. I'm going to take a step back for a few days, give my head a chance to clear then look at it again. Lots of other jobs to do on this project in the mean time, re-building hubs, rear suspension, bodywork, etc. I maybe down your way mid to later next week .... I could bring the tools ?!
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Post by clifford on Mar 4, 2020 19:58:58 GMT
Well that sounds like an offer too good to refuse Will message you tomorrow, Cheers
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Post by clifford on Mar 8, 2020 18:24:11 GMT
Update on this - Made an improvised puller from a lathe faceplate so got the T/C off again OK. Faceplate was cast iron and only 1/4" thick so expecting it to crack at any moment but it did the job, probably helped by the T/C only being on for a few days and not run. Held the shaft using an oil filter chain wrench with 1mm ally wrapped round the gear teeth. So, all torqued up and back together. Still have serious doubts about whether this unit will be any good but only time will tell.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 8, 2020 18:30:09 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Great, try it and see, but if you get sloppage etc, check the level, TIP, its not a normal dipstick, there is a procedure to follow.
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eddie
Junior Member
Posts: 5
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Post by eddie on Mar 9, 2020 2:33:26 GMT
Sorry to step into the conversation somewhat uninvited. I am new to the forum and have learned a lot from the conversations on the posts already active. I have a 1992 SPI, Japanese mini with very good body and all engine gripes fixed over the past 4 months. Since buying it there were problems with stuttering,whining in 1st and 4th gears, previous owner ran it on 20W50 so I promptly changed it out for 10W40 MA2, now 3 oil changes over 4 weeks but the problem progressed daily until this week it was not safe to drive any longer. I also sense no resistance on the drop down rod when moved, makes me think it's not linked properly in the transmission.
So long story short, I have come to the conclusion that the engine is coming out for at least the forward clutch, governor linkage review and band settings. I may sound comfortable with this but in truth am learning as I go. I live in BC, Canada, otherwise I would have driven any distance to have Martin apply his wisdom in my stead.
So my questions, posed here because I see Martin is contributing:
- Should I just bite the bullet for a complete overhaul with assumptions that this is likely necessary even if the forward clutch seems to be the culprit? - Did Martin ever finish/publish his guide for the overhaul process, if so I need to buy a copy. - Do I really need all 4 special tools for this job ? The TC puller and the tool to keep the forward clutch in place during assembly seems essential, just watching my pocketbook which is groaning a bit of late.
Thanks for allowing me to side track things a bit, this is my first post here. Apologies if I posted in the wrong spot.
Cheers
Jan ( Eddie )
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 9, 2020 8:26:11 GMT
Sorry to step into the conversation somewhat uninvited. I am new to the forum and have learned a lot from the conversations on the posts already active. I have a 1992 SPI, Japanese mini with very good body and all engine gripes fixed over the past 4 months. Since buying it there were problems with stuttering,whining in 1st and 4th gears, previous owner ran it on 20W50 so I promptly changed it out for 10W40 MA2, now 3 oil changes over 4 weeks but the problem progressed daily until this week it was not safe to drive any longer. I also sense no resistance on the drop down rod when moved, makes me think it's not linked properly in the transmission. So long story short, I have come to the conclusion that the engine is coming out for at least the forward clutch, governor linkage review and band settings. I may sound comfortable with this but in truth am learning as I go. I live in BC, Canada, otherwise I would have driven any distance to have Martin apply his wisdom in my stead. So my questions, posed here because I see Martin is contributing: - Should I just bite the bullet for a complete overhaul with assumptions that this is likely necessary even if the forward clutch seems to be the culprit? - Did Martin ever finish/publish his guide for the overhaul process, if so I need to buy a copy. - Do I really need all 4 special tools for this job ? The TC puller and the tool to keep the forward clutch in place during assembly seems essential, just watching my pocketbook which is groaning a bit of late. Thanks for allowing me to side track things a bit, this is my first post here. Apologies if I posted in the wrong spot. Cheers Jan ( Eddie ) Hi Eddie, Welcome to the forum, The first thing to do is to avoid driving, followed by a pressure test (300psi gauge) on the filter housing and the aux pump, the kick down linkage is free to move for most of its travel. From experience if you start to overhaul, you will simply move the issue along, ie fix one bit and weeks later you will have to fix other parts, this may not always be the case but I wouldn't risk it, especially as the unit is best removed from the engine to renew the forward clutch, ie too many things can go wrong. The forward clutch does require a holding tool and the seal sleeve tool to get best results and in reality save you money with less damage, to remove the converter you will need a puller of some form or other but it MUST pull on the designated bolt holes... the ring of 6 5/16" UNF around the centre. Regards Martin
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eddie
Junior Member
Posts: 5
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Post by eddie on Mar 9, 2020 19:45:23 GMT
Thanks Martin. I have sent you an email/order request and am looking forward to trying to do this overhaul.
Jan
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Post by buffer on Jun 27, 2020 8:20:36 GMT
Hi, Another hijacker.... I am recommissioning my 1973 Austin 1300, which has been unused for about 8 years as I put it in to storage when we went to work in Oz for 5 years. Now I have here with me in Spain and have the time to work on it as well as the space. So, the gearbox had been acting up before we went away, so I just decided to pull the lump and get on with it. Ive spoken to AP and chatted about parts, but I'm going to get a bit further in first. My first issue is the forward clutch. The friction plates are badly worn, as everyone said they would be, not bad for 20 odd thousand miles.. So, on reading the very informative article written by the guy in America I'm thinking the 3 plate conversion would be beneficial, but I'm confused. He talks about a 10 thou clearance, but were is this measured? On mine, when the piston is pushed right back and all the plates are in there's about a 2mm clearance to the underside of the retaining circlip. Now, if thats where the 10 thou is meant to be, then I'm not sure where all the material has gone, there is no way I,ve lost that from the friction plates, half a mil maybe,but Id have had to loose a whole plate! Any ideas? Also, I have downloaded several manuals,but I cant find much info on tolerances etc,do I need the Foulis book? Does anyone have a copy to download? Regards David
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Post by notamini on Jun 30, 2020 16:44:01 GMT
I do believe you will find a number of us Foulis owners will tell you that it is heavily covered by copyrights. All you can hope for is to find it in an out-of-the-way library or online thru used book sellers. Cost will vary depending on the seller's knowledge of its rarity. Check out the thread on here under How To. Todd will answer any questions you may have if you are patient enough to wait his answer. He is usually more available thru the BMC1100 club Google Group forum or the Facebook pages. I've known him for the last 16 years and he is a very formidable guy.
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Post by mra-minis on Jun 30, 2020 17:33:12 GMT
Hi, Another hijacker.... I am recommissioning my 1973 Austin 1300, which has been unused for about 8 years as I put it in to storage when we went to work in Oz for 5 years. Now I have here with me in Spain and have the time to work on it as well as the space. So, the gearbox had been acting up before we went away, so I just decided to pull the lump and get on with it. Ive spoken to AP and chatted about parts, but I'm going to get a bit further in first. My first issue is the forward clutch. The friction plates are badly worn, as everyone said they would be, not bad for 20 odd thousand miles.. So, on reading the very informative article written by the guy in America I'm thinking the 3 plate conversion would be beneficial, but I'm confused. He talks about a 10 thou clearance, but were is this measured? On mine, when the piston is pushed right back and all the plates are in there's about a 2mm clearance to the underside of the retaining circlip. Now, if thats where the 10 thou is meant to be, then I'm not sure where all the material has gone, there is no way I,ve lost that from the friction plates, half a mil maybe,but Id have had to loose a whole plate! Any ideas? Also, I have downloaded several manuals,but I cant find much info on tolerances etc,do I need the Foulis book? Does anyone have a copy to download? Regards David Are you building a 3 plate unit ? have you got the right parts ? measure the thickness of the base plate, reaction steels and retainer top plate, let us know those measurements first... You spoke to AP ? that's interesting, did you get any help or information from them ? Also I have recently been informed that Todd Miller is not on the scene anymore...
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Post by limby2000 on Jul 1, 2020 7:47:37 GMT
I mananaged to pick up the foulis book, i had been after it for years, ironically after seeing it for sale at crazy prices, i got it for under a fiver on amazon, like mention it was an ex-library book from wales with the card still in the front,lol.
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Post by limby2000 on Jul 1, 2020 7:51:37 GMT
There is an Ado16 group on facebook too.
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Post by notamini on Jul 2, 2020 12:14:12 GMT
I just spoke with Todd on our group only a few days ago. I don't know where you got your info from but the only place he is not available is on his Austinamericausa.com site. He had too many pokers in the fire. The ADO16 group was developed by a small group of dissatisfied BMC1100 group members. The number of members grew in leaps and bounds thanks to the info that was offered on there for parts and contacts in the help areas. The top guy had a run-in with the BMC1100 group and apparently said something about the club being too out of date and full of old fogies at least so I heard. How true I don't know. Many of these chaps seem to be into modifying the ADO16 models and the older BMC1100 group is not really about that.
No disrespect intended here.
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 2, 2020 14:12:18 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
I tried Todd's Tripod site and couldn't get on it appears closed, but also about 4 months ago I sent an order for a part Todd makes and I heard nothing back.
PS no disrespect taken
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Post by notamini on Jul 2, 2020 16:10:15 GMT
I don't get it Martin. I just now went onto his site. I'll try contacting him myself and see what digs.
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Post by limby2000 on Jul 2, 2020 17:24:43 GMT
I,m a member of the ado16 site, mainly because my mini engine is a 1098, but they seem a good group of lads and ladies and a bit more laid back. I used the ole stillson trick on mine too, works a charm.
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 2, 2020 20:10:07 GMT
I,m a member of the ado16 site, mainly because my mini engine is a 1098, but they seem a good group of lads and ladies and a bit more laid back. I used the ole stillson trick on mine too, works a charm. Not aware of the stilson trick ? what is it ??
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 2, 2020 20:10:42 GMT
I don't get it Martin. I just now went onto his site. I'll try contacting him myself and see what digs. Nor me I hope he's ok
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Post by notamini on Jul 6, 2020 21:35:16 GMT
Todd is well and doing just fine. He has just simplified his life a bit. he prefers to no longer provide parts due to new time commitments. If you are looking for the oil seals he might still do something for you, not sure. Contact him thru the BMC1100 google group or the BMC1100 Facebook site.
So what is this Stilson trick?
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Post by mra-minis on Jul 8, 2020 15:43:54 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com I think it has something to do with holding the primary gear when undoing and tightening the input gear nut ..... but as I now own V L Churchill & Co Ltd I can only suggest the use of the correct tooling...18G1088 primary gear holding tool
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Post by limby2000 on Jul 8, 2020 20:07:29 GMT
It is indeed, the trick, where needs must,and not being in possesion of the required Churchill tools like you Martin, although i do own an original Churchill t/c puller. I did wrap a strip of copper around the teeth prior to getting a grip.
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