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Post by 998auto on Apr 2, 2010 19:46:39 GMT
1.) What is the best type of ball joint splitter to use?
I am getting the engine ready for lifting out and have been using the fork shaped splitter. Fine on the drivers side but its not budging the ball joint on the passenger side.
Is the other version of a ball joint splitter better?
2.) What is the preferred method of removing the driveshafts?
I have the special tool described in all the manuals for removing the whole pot but there does not seem to be room on the drivers side because of the transmission on an auto.
Does anybody just pull the driveshaft out?
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dan
Full Member
Posts: 72
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Post by dan on Apr 3, 2010 0:02:11 GMT
the sissor type ball joint splitter is definatly more civilised and prob easier but i'v done 4 sets of ball joints and not needed a splitter on any of em!!
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Post by notamini on Apr 3, 2010 2:29:11 GMT
if the joint is anything like mine, using a 'pickle fork' will destroy them. Should use the screw down type.
Once you start to raise the engine, remove the shafts from the inner joints.
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Post by 998auto on Apr 4, 2010 8:31:05 GMT
Cheers Dan/Notamini, Will have to invest in thescissor type. Good tip on starting to raise the enine first will give it a try.  |
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skelly
Senior Member
1990 ,1275cc auto
Posts: 16
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Post by skelly on Apr 4, 2010 9:15:55 GMT
icouldnt split by ball joints, so i un did the joint it self by un screwin the big nut that holds it on, ijacked up the hub to refit it again. take awhile to get it to line up again. it worked for me.
iremoved the hole drive shaft, used the ball joint spliters the sissors type and a bar to push the pot joint from the drive.
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Post by 998auto on Apr 4, 2010 18:24:28 GMT
I may need a bar to remove the pot joint as well.
The special tool is difficult to manouvre on the drivers side let alone hit, because of the transmission.
Trying it tomorrow so will update.
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skelly
Senior Member
1990 ,1275cc auto
Posts: 16
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Post by skelly on Apr 4, 2010 20:01:32 GMT
ihad a long handle spliter which helped. iused the bar then to get it of the last bit. it took abit of time to get it off. ialso un do the the ball joint on the steerin rods lets the hub lay down that extra bit, that joint split really handy for me any way. it all went back to gelther easy enough then, good luck with it to-moro
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Post by 998auto on Apr 5, 2010 20:17:05 GMT
Not managed it yet. Ran out of time as my better half wanted to go shopping.  Anyway managed to get one driveshaft out on the drivers side. My brother lent me his scissor ball joint splitter (which he bought yesterday at the show) for the ball joint on the passenger side and I managed to break it without splitting the ball joint.  I am going to try lifting the engine on Saturday and move the engine off the driveshaft without splitting the ball joint out. Then go back to the ball joint at a later date. |
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Post by 998auto on Apr 10, 2010 19:05:14 GMT
Engine is out.   Had a few problems with the driveshaft. The pot is still attached, just pulled it apart in the end. Still need to split the ball joint from the upper suspension arm and tackle the Torque Converter but at least I will have more room now. |
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Post by clambod on Apr 15, 2010 14:35:59 GMT
What has necessitated the need for the engine to come out?
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Post by 998auto on Apr 15, 2010 18:49:56 GMT
The teeth on the ring gear are badly worn meaning it was jamming against the starter motor.
I had a go at removing the Torque Converter and Ring Gear in situ, see The How to Section.
However the Torque Converter is well and truly welded in place so I had to take the engine so I can apply some serious leverage to it.
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Post by clambod on Apr 16, 2010 7:00:43 GMT
quite a job you got there then
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Post by asahartz on Apr 23, 2010 15:55:01 GMT
How do you manage to break a scissor type splitter? I've used the standard Halfords model for a few years now, bent the forks a bit, but never broken.
FWIW I always use a windy gun to tighten the splitter bolt. If the joint is really stubborn I might leave it under pressure for a while, then give it a whack with a hammer which usually shifts it. (The standard technique on my VW camper balljoints is to hit the cast ring from both sides at the same time using two hammers!)
As for the pot joint, I use a chisel as a wedge between the joint and the casting and it's never failed.
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Post by 998auto on Apr 23, 2010 21:36:57 GMT
You would think that it was impossible to break wouldn't you.
I tightened the splitter so much the bolt gouged a hole into the splitter resulting in it slipping sideways, without budging the ball joint.
Also tried the chisel method to no effect on the pot (however saw an engine for sale on e-bay a few weeks ago for pennies because the owner had destroyed the casing trying to remove a stuck on pot so decided not to persuade it too much)
I am now starting to realise that a car with original parts from 1984 does not part with them easily.
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Post by joakwin on Apr 25, 2010 7:32:19 GMT
i removed the tc from my 84 with the engine in the car, just lifted the engine a small amount on that one side and used a flywheel puller that i mod alittle to work with the auto tc
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 15, 2013 17:40:06 GMT
With the correct tooling it is simple, however there is a lot of cheap and nasty "junk" on the market, that just costs you money so that you can fill the scrap bin.
I can sell or rent a convertor puller, in either case I have never been stumped, with either convertor or flywheel, indeed, just recently I removed a flywheel from a local guys mini, he was told by two "experts" that it would need to be cut off !!! 5 minutes later and off it comes all in good health :-)
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