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Post by mra-minis on Jan 18, 2016 18:01:38 GMT
Motorcycle oil should not be much more expensive. Don't go for the oils for the big bikes without wet clutches. Look for the MA2 description, and pick your brand. That means it meets the right friction characteristics. This chart shows the difference in friction coeficient You can see that a MA2 oil will have about twice the grab as a normal car oil. The difference between Mineral and Synthetic will mainly be in how long you can run with it. Synthetic is especially better in real hot climates and city driving where temperatures go up. It will resist oxidation (darkening) better. Going back to price, shop around. I sell (retail) MA2 motorcycle oil for $3 more per case of 12 qts than I do an API SN motor oil for cars. That's 25 cents US more per bottle. Just to confirm are you suggesting that there is no real difference between mineral and semi-synthetic oils ? Also do have a motorcycle oil in the UK that you would recommend ? also would they be suitable to work with cera-metallic clutch plates and paper plates ?
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Post by richard1 on Feb 9, 2016 22:47:10 GMT
The only advantage to Synthetic is that it would last longer maintain viscosity longer. But the key is looking for the MA2, which should be on respectable brands. It is a Japanese standard, as they are the leaders in motorcycles. (not counting the knock-offs in China). If it only says MA, it is probably MA1.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 29, 2016 6:44:46 GMT
The only advantage to Synthetic is that it would last longer maintain viscosity longer. But the key is looking for the MA2, which should be on respectable brands. It is a Japanese standard, as they are the leaders in motorcycles. (not counting the knock-offs in China). If it only says MA, it is probably MA1. Ok, so you recommend the MA2 oil spec, I assume it is available in different grades ?
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 29, 2016 8:18:33 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
In talks with Shell to see what they can offer.
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Post by richard1 on Mar 29, 2016 11:12:25 GMT
The two most popular grades of MA2 oils for motorcycles are 10W-40 and 20W-50.
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Post by limby2000 on Mar 29, 2016 20:28:47 GMT
I use Motul 10 w 40 motorcycle oil myself, but come across this in the back cover of an Austin 1100 automatic workshop manual dated 1967. Attachments:
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Post by jockduck on Mar 30, 2016 10:18:46 GMT
Yep I have seen that too, I have a rocker cover with a sticker recommending "Castrolite" which I think is/was 10/30, To be honest I don't know where the idea of using 20/50 came from I reckon its too heavy particularly in winter, unless something or someone tells me otherwise I am going to try a 10/40 next oil change in OTTO (68 minimatic) Jock
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 30, 2016 12:35:14 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
I think it came from people using 20W50 to stop leaks.... it was also advertised "for older cars"
Yes I have actually seen people write that 20W50 stopped their leak !
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Post by notamini on Mar 30, 2016 12:58:37 GMT
Yes. Well... so does Chrisco shortening for a few hours... stops smoke and knock too. Great for unloading clunkers. My valve cover says 10/40 oil.
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Post by mra-minis on Mar 30, 2016 13:07:37 GMT
Yes. Well... so does Chrisco shortening for a few hours... stops smoke and knock too. Great for unloading clunkers. My valve cover says 10/40 oil. 10/40 ? is that on your ADO16 ?
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Post by tony105 on Mar 31, 2016 19:52:30 GMT
I've just had the oil changed in my Mini to 10/40 together with finally getting the oil leak fixed. The 10/40 has made a huge difference in terms of making the gearbox change more smoothly even from cold. The oil was leaking from the oil filter and the rocker cover - so all is well again!
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Post by notamini on Apr 1, 2016 16:22:27 GMT
Yeppers. The N. American version of the ADO16, Austin America for Canada has the 10/40 oil recommended on the cover.
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Post by minigman on Apr 26, 2016 6:23:18 GMT
One of my autos is due an oil change. Having read this I'm thinking of going down the MA2 route. I've seen the motul 3000 for sale which is a mineral oil rather than semi synthetic. Any updated thoughts on this?
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Post by zerot on Apr 27, 2016 10:10:30 GMT
I have just contacted Opie for their suggestion and here is the conversation. Your thoughts please.
These are all 10w-40
Opie recommend:
Titan Race Pro R - Ester Synthetic - Car Oil (£10.79/L) (1 free litre deal - £8.99/L) Silkolene Comp 4 - Ester Semi Synthetic- MA Bike Oil (£8.23/L)
Others I mentioned:
Motul 7100 4T - Ester Synthetic - MA2 Bike Oil (£9.49/L) Motul 300V 4T - Ester Synthetic - Bike Oil "Wet clutch compatible" (£4.24/L) Silkolene PRO 4 - Ester Full Synthetic - MA2 Bike Oil (£10.48/L)
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Post by mra-minis on Apr 27, 2016 11:46:51 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
The oils suggested maybe "bike" oils, for bikes with combined gearbox and engine, however not all bikes have wet clutches and this is were MA2 comes in, there are a few different grades MA, MA1 and MA2 being the ones that have been mentioned on previous posts, however for an AP2 wet clutch system, MA2 appears to be the only one that has the correct characteristics and specification.
I am unsure if you told Opie this or not ? however it would appear none of the oils recommended are to the Japanese MA2 spec.
Have a look at RICHARD1 on here and his posts on oils specs..
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Post by zerot on Apr 27, 2016 13:33:29 GMT
The Motul 7100 4T and Silkolene PRO 4 are both JASO MA2, you can even see it printed on the back of the bottles in big letters in the bottle photographs.
The Motul 300V 4T doesnt mention MA2 but it does say "Wet clutch compatibility checked on JASO T904", which might be slightly different?
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Post by mra-minis on Apr 27, 2016 13:38:37 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Excellent, then by all account they would be ideal
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Post by notamini on May 24, 2016 21:05:22 GMT
This is the sticker placed on my North American Engine. Note the mention of automatic
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Post by mra-minis on May 24, 2016 23:13:05 GMT
View AttachmentThis is the sticker placed on my North American Engine. Note the mention of automatic It would do, as you are in a "hot" climate aren't you ? I think the later recommendation is 5W30 oil for hot climes..
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Post by notamini on May 25, 2016 1:50:56 GMT
Hot? That's a laugh. Summer goes to low 30'sC winter goes to low -20'sC. Summer is 2-3 months. 200 miles north of us they get winter and July.
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Post by mra-minis on May 25, 2016 2:16:27 GMT
Hot? That's a laugh. Summer goes to low 30'sC winter goes to low -20'sC. Summer is 2-3 months. 200 miles north of us they get winter and July. So it's not hot where you live ? Where are you again ?
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Post by notamini on May 25, 2016 14:46:12 GMT
I'm in Southern Ontario, Canada. We're 50 miles SW of Toronto in a town called Guelph, pop 120,000.
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Post by Tomas O'Cuplæ on Jun 15, 2016 19:29:22 GMT
Hello. Following this, what supposedly is very very good inside info from someone who knows/knew his business... I decided to do an oil swap. I bought some fully synthetic MA2 oil...and indeed, I must say it makes a difference. I tend to manually change gears easily, and now with this MA2 oil, down gearing (4 to 3 or 3 to 2) is going very smooth. On the ear, all seems less "dry". I will have to drive some more to check if see still tends to 'squeak' (tends to do that when you're parked and need to drive again, especially on hills) once she's hot after 10min drive... Before I was on mineral 20W50. I didn't notice any leaking. I secretly hoped it would resolve an issue I have with my rear-gear which doesn't work anymore once the engine is hot...but no...but hey overall I'm pleased with this excellent info ! MA2 is a must do for all our automatic boxes !
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Post by mra-minis on Jun 15, 2016 23:47:32 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
So you have no reverse ? have you got a pressure testing device ? in the top of the filter housing you will find a hex plug you need to screw it in there and get a friend to help, checking forward and reverse for pressure.
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Post by Tomas O'Cuplæ on Jun 16, 2016 12:44:22 GMT
I'll PM you as this is off-topic here
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Post by raymond on Jun 29, 2016 21:03:42 GMT
Hi my name is Raymond and am in Jamaica i just bought a 1996 rover mini automatic and am not sure which oil to used in it, can you say which is the correct one.
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Post by mra-minis on Jun 29, 2016 22:36:43 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
What does it say you should use in your climate ? You should find this information in the handbook for your Mini.
But a good starting point is to read the latest pages of this thread 2015 onward's for up to date advice on oils to use.
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Post by scrappydoo on Jul 29, 2016 18:06:28 GMT
Got a low mileage '95 1275spi which requires a full service after doing hardly any miles for last few years, but not being serviced that regularly either. I'm thinking of servicing with normal semi synthetic 10/40, running for a week then changing oil and filter again for 10/40 MA motorcycle oil.
Just wondering if this would be safe to do and if I should get fully synthetic or semi synth MA oil?
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Post by g1drp on Jul 30, 2016 16:32:50 GMT
Mines done 38,000 miles and I'm wondering whether to try Motul 3000 20W50. There is a slight transmission slip when it changes from 3rd to 4th but it's not too bad and the other gears change rally smoothly. So which is the best one to use please, 10W40 or 20W50?
Thanks in advance,
Ian
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Post by limby2000 on Jul 30, 2016 23:03:19 GMT
10w40 motul but make sure its Ma2 that what i use. It atually works out at a good price.
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