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Post by mra-minis on Oct 31, 2016 16:11:28 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Add between 2.5 to 5 degrees of advance for the altitude
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Post by 69hcode on Nov 1, 2016 1:45:45 GMT
I have my timing set at 13 degrees initial and 31 degrees total right now. What would you suggest for total timing and what rpm should it be all in at?
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 1, 2016 10:25:54 GMT
I have my timing set at 13 degrees initial and 31 degrees total right now. What would you suggest for total timing and what rpm should it be all in at? I would normally go by the book for the year and model of car then adjust to improve if possible, if you have a lot of wear no amount of adjustment will correct the situation...
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Post by hennasxi on Nov 20, 2016 19:05:41 GMT
As my Jap spec Spi has the later Mpi coil pack I don't think my oil light issue is timing.
Update on my car, the other week it was below zero, and the car did not want to engage any forward or reverse gears. I've heard its best to let the car warm up before use on cold mornings?
Later that week it was fine again and I drove to Birmingham NEC and back (about 300 mile round trip) and gears all behaved, but the oil light is flickering on in gear when stationary, and still comes full on when changing between N-R or N-D.
I will revisit the oil pressures again at some point, and I will give the car another oil change - its running 10W40 MA2 oil now, but did have 20W50 before, so another fresh load of 10W40 MA2 can't harm.
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 21, 2016 15:02:26 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Have you removed the oil pressure release valve and checked the valve and seat for wear or debris ? this is the large cap nut on the front of the engine.
never fit a ball and spring as they are not suitable for road use, the plunger gives a more controlled and even pressure, the ball would give very inconsistent pressure and flow.
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Post by limby2000 on Nov 21, 2016 18:54:05 GMT
I know in one of my auto mini user manuals, it say,s wait 30 second,s after starting before driving. As for the pressure relief valve, i did mention to check to check this a few months back. No brainer really.
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Post by mra-minis on Nov 21, 2016 21:15:57 GMT
As for the pressure relief valve, i did mention to check to check this a few months back. No brainer really. It is only a "no brainer" if you know about it
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Post by hennasxi on Dec 4, 2016 22:54:57 GMT
I've not had the time to do the pressure release valve yet, need to find the space to get it up on ramps, and the time to get the starter off as you can't access it without removing the starter as far as I can tell, so its not exactly a 5 minute job with the facilities I have available.
I might even get a mini specialist to do it for me as it could be weeks before I get around to it due to work and lack of daylight during the winter.
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Post by limby2000 on Dec 5, 2016 9:17:06 GMT
Yeah, on later mini,s the solenoid part of the starter obscures the releif valve. Its just another thing to tick off the list of possible causes. Keep us informed on this one. Regards Terry.
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Post by hennasxi on Feb 2, 2017 21:10:55 GMT
So I managed to remove the pressure relief valve spring and bullet without removing the starter - there is just enough room to undo the nut and get it all out. The spring and bullet looked like new. dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64446991/15727008_10210664033895599_6885380110641556440_n.jpgI don't think its that. Back to oil pressures again, need to get a gauge that goes over 100psi first though as the one I have can't do that. Car has had another oil and filter change with MA2 oil and no change with the oil light issue, the cold weather is not helping it seems.
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Post by limby2000 on Feb 2, 2017 21:44:08 GMT
I know this might sound a bit random, but your dash bulbs havent been changed for led bulb,s by any chance as i remember reading on the mini forum that someone had a similar problem with there charging light coming on when idling and it turned out to he his upgraded bulbs.
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Post by hennasxi on Feb 2, 2017 22:13:51 GMT
No its all original - I've seen the pressure on the engine (removing the pressure sensor from the block and replacing with a oil pressure gauge) and its dipping to 10 PSi when selecting 1,2,3,D or R, and that's why the light comes on. Here is a video clip of it, going from P to R, pressure goes from about 60 to 10, then once in gear back to about 40. Its got worse since I did this test and takes longer to go into gear, sometimes not going in gear and pressure stays low until I try changing from R back to P or D. I think a valve in the gearbox may be sticking ? dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64446991/IMG_1584.MOV
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Post by mra-minis on Feb 2, 2017 23:53:40 GMT
I can't see this video tells me the format is wrong ?
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Post by hennasxi on Feb 3, 2017 0:35:05 GMT
Its off my iPhone, plays OK on my Windows laptop with media player?
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Post by limby2000 on Feb 3, 2017 6:22:49 GMT
It would,nt play for me too.
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Post by notamini on Feb 3, 2017 16:04:52 GMT
I got it OK. Also on WMP. It took at least 30 seconds to load. Comes in like a downloaded file which you need to open. Sorry. Can't help with the issue too.
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Post by hennasxi on Aug 29, 2017 22:08:04 GMT
So my oil pressure issues are still ongoing. I've now sorted out a second oil pressure gauge suitable for connecting to the gearbox. So far all I have had time to do is connect up two gauges (one to the engine pressure sensor hole and one to the gearbox) and fire the car up from cold to idle with the car in 'Park' So from a cold start with the gear in Parked position, are these pressures normal? 60 PSi on the engine and 100 PSi on the gearbox ? The car is now on its third helping of MA2 10W40 oil, and the gearbox is changing gear quite well, except for some faffing being 2nd and 3rd when changing up. when the car has been on a motorway run and is hot, the oil pressure seems to have dropped a lot. Is this a sign of leaking seals so when the oil is hot and thinner it is leaking within the gearbox so pressure to the engine drops? I'll be doing some more tests over the next week or so and will post some more results.
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Post by richard1 on Aug 30, 2017 17:26:19 GMT
I'm using 10W-40 MA2 oil. Pressures start out around 60 psi cold. Probably has a bypass dropping off the extra at that point. Once it gets hot it runs around 42 psi. As far as the transmission, you want, as I remember, about 120 or more in the forward gears and 170 or so in Reverse. Measure it at the tap on the filter housing
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Post by hennasxi on Aug 30, 2017 18:43:14 GMT
OK so i have just carried the following tests:-
Let engine warm up to operating temp (oil still relatively cold but coolant up to normal temp)
Gauges in Park showing same as before 60 psi on engine, 100 psi on gearbox Selected R Engine drops to 30 psi, 170 psi on gearbox Selected D Engine pressure steadies to 45 psi, 100 psi on gearbox.
Gears all selecting well and all appears OK. So the issue I am having is only once the car has been pushed hard and oil temp is up - I need to go for a decent run and re-test.
Looking at the AP2 gearbox manual info, the above pressures seem about spot on....................that is with oil relatively cool though.
Only thing to note which may be normal (I do not know !!) is when changing from P to R or D, momentarily pressure drops away on both engine (to around 20 psi) and gearbox (to around 60 psi) for a second before going to a steady state as stated above. Is that normal whilst the various bands / valves operate ?
If it turns out after a decent run I have low pressure just on the engine, what could that be? Could it still be the pressure release valve sticking open when hot only ? Perhaps I should revisit / change this anyhow and see even though the current one looks as good as new ?
Any thoughts appreciated
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Post by Tomas O'Cuplæ on Aug 30, 2017 18:59:05 GMT
I'm curious about the reactions...I have somewhat the same problem ... perfect working gearbox when the oil is cold...once hot, I have no reverse anymore I didn't do the pressure tests yet when she's hot though ... My guess would be a worn oilpump...since the oil gets thinner when hot, the pump has less friction?
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Post by notamini on Aug 31, 2017 12:45:19 GMT
I too have this problem and I was told it could be old seals, 'O' rings in the valve box and elsewhere.
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Post by Stu on Aug 31, 2017 19:08:15 GMT
I'm curious about the reactions...I have somewhat the same problem ... perfect working gearbox when the oil is cold...once hot, I have no reverse anymore I didn't do the pressure tests yet when she's hot though ... My guess would be a worn oilpump...since the oil gets thinner when hot, the pump has less friction? I'd be suprised if it's due to worn oil pump lobes unless it's done starship mileage. They're pretty robust for long service.
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 31, 2017 21:44:26 GMT
OK so i have just carried the following tests:- Let engine warm up to operating temp (oil still relatively cold but coolant up to normal temp) Gauges in Park showing same as before 60 psi on engine, 100 psi on gearbox Selected R Engine drops to 30 psi, 170 psi on gearbox Selected D Engine pressure steadies to 45 psi, 100 psi on gearbox. Gears all selecting well and all appears OK. So the issue I am having is only once the car has been pushed hard and oil temp is up - I need to go for a decent run and re-test. Looking at the AP2 gearbox manual info, the above pressures seem about spot on....................that is with oil relatively cool though. Only thing to note which may be normal (I do not know !!) is when changing from P to R or D, momentarily pressure drops away on both engine (to around 20 psi) and gearbox (to around 60 psi) for a second before going to a steady state as stated above. Is that normal whilst the various bands / valves operate ? If it turns out after a decent run I have low pressure just on the engine, what could that be? Could it still be the pressure release valve sticking open when hot only ? Perhaps I should revisit / change this anyhow and see even though the current one looks as good as new ? Any thoughts appreciated If you are getting low readings on your engine it will be caused by your engine, ie engine wear or faulty part, or now here is something that 99.999% of the mini family are unaware of, you could also have retarded ignition, as this will often cause oil pressure light to come on
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Post by mra-minis on Aug 31, 2017 21:48:21 GMT
I'm curious about the reactions...I have somewhat the same problem ... perfect working gearbox when the oil is cold...once hot, I have no reverse anymore I didn't do the pressure tests yet when she's hot though ... My guess would be a worn oilpump...since the oil gets thinner when hot, the pump has less friction? A worn oil pump will give you redued pressures that get worse as the revs climb, if at tickover you used to get 30psi but now get 15psi then as your revs climb you will get less that 50% ie if you expect to see 60psi at X rpm then you won't see 30psi, but maybe 25psi.... (these are just figures to explain the situation not to be taken as absolute readings etc)
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Post by notamini on Sept 1, 2017 14:32:58 GMT
Martin, what is your suggested timing? I was always told 8 degrees static and 10 degrees @ 1000 rpm timing light. And should there be any difference if it is points or electronic? And what about the expected octane you wish to use? Does that affect the timing as well?
Mark
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Post by hennasxi on Sept 1, 2017 20:11:55 GMT
OK, more testing today with a spirited run to get the oil hot with the pressure gauges still connected. Gearbox drove faultlessly, however, not good news on the pressures:-
Start up - 100 psi on gearbox and 60 psi on engine with the car in 'Park'
Went for a 15 mile hard run, came home, took readings as follows:-
Car in 'Park', engine oil pressure 10 psi, gearbox pressure 90 psi car in 'Reverse' engine oil pressure about 2 psi, gearbox pressure 80 psi car in '1' engine oil pressure zero !, gearbox pressure 70 psi
I think its game over for driving this car until I have fixed the problem. Going on the fact all pressures are down on what they should be, am I right in thinking it is the gearbox / oil pump and not the engine?
I am not sure what else I can do other than try a new pressure release bullet, but I can't see how that will cure the gearbox pressures being low ? I think its looking like an engine / gearbox out job and rebuild :-(
Also, as my car is a 2000 SPi Jap spec car with a coil pack, I can't see how it can be the ignition being retarded in my case?
I don't think there is much else I can try myself.
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Post by axeman71 on Jun 13, 2018 19:18:34 GMT
What is the difference between Motul MA and MA2 oils? I purchased some Motul 5100 10w40, but noticed it is MA, will this work ok?
Thanks
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Post by mra-minis on Jun 13, 2018 20:27:30 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
yes it will work but it is not quite as good, slightly lower friction (less grip) on the bands and clutch plates, however if you have 70 lbft or more torques then MA2 is required as it copes with heat better, friction converts into heat
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Post by axeman71 on Jun 13, 2018 20:33:41 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com yes it will work but it is not quite as good, slightly lower friction (less grip) on the bands and clutch plates, however if you have 70 lbft or more torques then MA2 is required as it copes with heat better, friction converts into heat Thank you! I will use it then swap in for MA2 on the next change.
Cheers
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Post by richard1 on Jun 14, 2018 0:04:26 GMT
This is it from a technical side, as far as coefficient of friction in the three tests. Tarija and Santa Cruz, Bolivia
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