|
Post by clifford on Jan 14, 2020 19:40:56 GMT
I recently acquired a Foers Nomad, mini based kit car. I gather it has not been on the road for over twenty years and has passed through several owners in that time. It would appear that it was originally based on a 1963 Riley Elf and first registered as a Nomad in 1983. No history with it but I did find a post from 2017 on 'Autoshite' where it was listed for sale. Back then it looked like this -
The chap that bought it had great plans but unfortunately had to abandon them for health reasons. These plans included changing the manual box to an auto, along with some drastic bodywork alterations. When it was listed for sale on the Minikits F/B group late last year it looked very different indeed with a fair bit of the bodywork removed, engine/box out and lots of boxes of parts. I decided that it could be just what I was looking for so have taken it on. This is the basic vehicle as it was delivered
The engine and box are now in my conservatory, almost reassembled. The plan is to build up the running gear on the front subframe, separate from the vehicle, replacing/restoring all parts as necessary, whilst simultaneously restoring the chassis and bodywork. Then, put the two together and we're away. This is where I've got to so far -
|
|
|
Post by notamini on Jan 14, 2020 21:58:12 GMT
That is awesome. I hope nothing comes about to stop you from finishing. Please keep posting your progress.
Mark
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Jan 27, 2020 18:01:44 GMT
After several weeks of the usual seized nuts, sheared bolts, scraping and swearing, I have at last been able to do something positive. Has become -
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Mar 2, 2020 18:23:15 GMT
Got it back the right way up and trial fitted a new wheel arch. All going well but then hit a major setback regarding the gearbox re-assembly and subframe compatibility. Now distancing myself from the project to calm down and have a hard think.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Mar 2, 2020 18:51:53 GMT
When I took this project on the seller assured me that virtually everything was there to finish the car. I knew there were bound to be lots of parts missing or that required replacing but he was very believable and convincing. Especially on the point of being adamant that the car had the correct front subframe for the auto unit it came with, even when I expressed my doubts.
Having got the engine/box back together sufficiently to offer it up to the subframe, (T/C housing & cover fitted temporarily), lo and behold it doesn't fit! I feared I was faced with trying to locate an early (pre-76) auto subframe, which I didn't have much hope of finding. Then I hit a further snag when I turned to assembling the box properly. I was perhaps naïve to be following Haynes instructions, but simply can't see how to torque up the input gear nut.
Now thoroughly dejected by the whole issue and considering scrapping the idea of fitting the auto and maybe just going down the manual route. Not what I really wanted and quite an expense but at least I know all the parts will be readily available, as well as dependable manuals.
Please share any thoughts, or perhaps words of encouragement, I'm gutted by it all!
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Jun 25, 2020 16:33:16 GMT
Back on track with this project. Got hold of an auto front subframe only to discover my Nomad wasn't quite ready to accept it. All it require was the tower bolt holes to be enlarged and another two holes drilled for the rear mount, where it would bolt up to the toe board in a mini. Once I'd had a successful trial fitting, I built up the suspension with it off the car.
Front bodywork is also looking a bit different now
|
|
|
Post by firept on Jun 30, 2020 9:12:22 GMT
Hi. Its all starting to come together now and looking good. Its always a problem when you buy a 'box of parts' that may have been complete at some time but on the positive at least you now know where they all go Just a word of caution please, please, please buy quality bearings for the wheels etc SKF, Timken etc not pattern parts I bought some from a reputable supplier and they lasted just 1000 miles (see one of my previous posts) and I had to be recovered home Also watch out for rubber components again I had problems with simple boots on the handbrake linkage on the back plate within 6 months they were rock hard and cracking. what was annoying is that the originals that were over 30 years old were worn but still OK. best of luck Paul.
|
|
|
Post by notamini on Jun 30, 2020 16:49:58 GMT
Not just rubber parts but also China branded tyres! I placed some Atlas Porta-whites on my Chinese tyres and they are actually cutting into my sidewalls after only 300 miles!! Always look for alternative mfr's for ANY parts and try to stay clear of anyone who might sound like a China supplier.
|
|
|
Post by limby2000 on Jul 2, 2020 6:47:53 GMT
I take my hat off to you Clifford, you havent gone the simplest route,and youve kept going. Love the shape, never seen one before. My dad briefly owned a mini Ranger in the late seventies early eighties, it was fibreglass and made from an Austin 1100 (ado16). Theres plenty of auto parts about if you need to find any. What gearbox have you got (hardy spicer), or pot joints?.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Aug 16, 2020 18:04:46 GMT
Thanks for the words of encouragement. This project is helping keep me occupied and relatively sane. When anyone asks me "Haven't you finished it yet?" I tell them I bought it to 'Do' not to 'finish'! If I finish it then I'll have nothing to do, and what would be the point in that? Hopefully things will be different before too long but for the moment I'm more than happy just steadily plugging on. This panel below the driver's door had a total of 34 holes in it! Mostly for the self-tappers holding on a wooden rubbing strake some previous owner had fitted. Needless to say, it had to be replaced. Got the rear subframe re-built and fitted. Pleased to see the MG Midget fuel tank nestles nicely within it.
Made up the framework for the rear bed, back end more or less complete now. Wondering what to do next. Not short of options .
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Sept 13, 2020 17:30:26 GMT
Got an engine in at last! There were quite a few engine related parts missing that the seller repeatedly promised to get to me but never did. I kept giving him the benefit of the doubt but alas it turns out that was misplaced. Shame because he had seemed genuine enough but turned out to be very definitely not a man of his word. When I came to look closer I had serious doubts about the quality of the work he'd carried out too so decided rather than fit a suspect engine I'd seek out another. Got this one off the chap I got the front subframe from. Looks good to me and he assured me it was a good runner but it has been standing a while so only time will tell.
Got the exhaust fitted. I've added a bend between the two boxes to give me a side exit system.
|
|
|
Post by kiwimini on Sept 18, 2020 22:52:10 GMT
Your job makes my conversion look like a walk in the park.. 1996 13spi auto to 1320 A+ and rod box. Trigger wheel on front pulley. Like yourself, a few 'little 'problems on the way.. Great effort. Don't give up.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Nov 7, 2020 17:13:54 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Great project coming along nicely, keep up the excellent work and who knows, next year we may see you at a show or two
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Dec 22, 2020 17:42:20 GMT
Been distracted from this project with doing some glass fibre work on the camping pod, and getting my other classics sorted for the winter, but back on track at last. Now got lots of engine related bits bolted on and plumbed in. It's got oil and water in it so just need to get some basic wiring connected up and I'll be ready to see if it runs.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Dec 22, 2020 18:36:12 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Looking good erm I have to tell you though, sorry but your fan is on backwards love the colour that yellow just adds the right amount of light to the unit
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Dec 23, 2020 15:34:57 GMT
All sorted now Thanks for pointing that out Martin. In correcting it I also discovered that the fan had been fitted with the 'spacer' on the radiator side, under the screw heads ! I hope this isn't an indicator of the standard of any other work that might have been carried out on the engine. Only time will tell.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Dec 23, 2020 23:51:56 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
I was told by an "expert" that the spacer is actually there to "support" the fan, ie he was fitting it exactly as you found yours, so I am not surprised.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Jan 29, 2021 17:30:45 GMT
The current spell of cold weather has put a stop to any outdoor work on my Nomad so I've turned my attention to those bits and pieces that I can work on indoors. Refurbed the gear selector, starting on the doors next.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Jan 29, 2021 18:41:37 GMT
I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com
Nice bit of carving there.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Feb 27, 2021 19:13:49 GMT
Got a battery tray fitted so now just need to add some electrical bits and pieces and I'll be ready to see if it runs. It was empty but 3lt of oil has brought it up to 'MAX' on the dipstick, have asked for advice in the 'Tech' section as I need to make sure it's got enough oil in it before trying to start it.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Mar 17, 2021 10:05:25 GMT
Slow progress with trying to get it running so turned my attention to finishing the doors.
The great thing about this being a 'utility' vehicle is that I don't have to be too fussy about the finish, so minor dents, exposed rivets and satin paint are all quite acceptable, which makes things a lot easier !
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Apr 5, 2021 21:12:51 GMT
Finally seem to have got the oil filter canister to seal so had a go at spinning up the engine (with plugs out) to see what oil pressures I get. Quite encouraged by the result - 45psi at engine and 120psi at the test port. Took a little while to fill the filter before anything showed on the gauge but then it flew up to 160psi and immediately dropped back down to 120. Connected everything up and tried it again, fired up almost immediately, showed 60psi at engine and 125psi at the test point, very happy indeed. I had it on axle stands with wheels removed and just as well as it was in reverse! Put it in neutral and waited a few minutes for it to warm up a bit and settle down. Appeared to be ticking over quite nicely, I would guess at about 800rpm, showing 45/120psi and no sign of any catastrophic oil leaks. Tried it in first, seemed to engage nicely, revs and pressure dropped then almost straight away recovered. Same when I tried it in second and reverse. I then noticed that the temperature gauge had crept up to 100C so shut it down. Took plugs out and did a compression test 1 - 190, 2 - 150, 3 - 145, 4 - 195. Also discovered slight oil leaks at the kickdown linkage, governor housing, O/S diff seal and the selector shaft. All in all I'd say it was very successful. I didn't know what to expect but now I can look forward to perhaps taking it out for a test drive and see how it behaves on the road, before pulling it out and setting about some remedial work. Now to set about the wiring, brakes, fuel supply, bodywork, etc. etc. etc.
|
|
|
Post by notamini on Apr 6, 2021 13:26:41 GMT
Question for Martin. Is that not too wide a spread in compression figures?
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Apr 6, 2021 13:43:05 GMT
Question for Martin. Is that not too wide a spread in compression figures? I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Yes ideally the maximum gap should not be any more than 10%, so at 145 psi it would be 14.5 psi total of 159.5psi or 190 = 19 total 171 psi
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Apr 6, 2021 16:36:10 GMT
Yep, definitely something amiss with cylinders 2 & 3 but at this stage I'm absolutely thrilled to bits that it runs and has stopped covering the ground with oil . Hopefully just a head gasket issue, fingers crossed. Once I get the rest of the vehicle sorted I'm hoping it's running well enough for me to do a stall test, have a drive and see how the gearbox performs, take some pressure readings, etc. Then I will be in a better position to see what other work is needed. My fear was that if it leaked severely, didn't have enough pressure, wouldn't run or wouldn't even engage, then I would have had to pull it out without having the chance to see if anything else needed doing while it was out.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Apr 6, 2021 18:30:10 GMT
Yep, definitely something amiss with cylinders 2 & 3 but at this stage I'm absolutely thrilled to bits that it runs and has stopped covering the ground with oil . Hopefully just a head gasket issue, fingers crossed. Once I get the rest of the vehicle sorted I'm hoping it's running well enough for me to do a stall test, have a drive and see how the gearbox performs, take some pressure readings, etc. Then I will be in a better position to see what other work is needed. My fear was that if it leaked severely, didn't have enough pressure, wouldn't run or wouldn't even engage, then I would have had to pull it out without having the chance to see if anything else needed doing while it was out. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com do a compression test on no2 with all plugs except no 3 removed then do the same test with no3 removed see if you have a difference, a head gasket leak should show up as a slight drop with no 3 removed, if no drop then it maybe valve seats
|
|
|
Post by notamini on Apr 7, 2021 13:29:05 GMT
Thanks Martin. Good tip to know.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Apr 8, 2021 8:36:51 GMT
do a compression test on no2 with all plugs except no 3 removed then do the same test with no3 removed see if you have a difference, a head gasket leak should show up as a slight drop with no 3 removed, if no drop then it maybe valve seats Thanks Martin, I've never thought of testing this way before. Now you've explained it, it seems the obvious next step to take. I want to check/replace the thermostat before I try running it again. Meanwhile, the current cold spell has sent me back indoors so I'm working on the new dashboard and re-furbishing the heater.
|
|
|
Post by clifford on Apr 12, 2021 10:35:35 GMT
New dash finished and ready to be fitted once the heater and pedal box are in.
|
|
|
Post by mra-minis on Apr 12, 2021 11:19:51 GMT
New dash finished and ready to be fitted once the heater and pedal box are in. I can be contacted on martin@kmprecisionengineering.com Coming along nicely
|
|